Here I give clear steps on how I go about treating a deck.
1) choose the best product you can afford and 2) the first steps you’ll need to take to paint or stain deck material. 
No matter what deck paint or stain we are going to apply, I always first do a pressure wash: for the cost of paying someone to do this for you, you can own your own quality pressure washer (here you see the 2000 p.s.i., or a smaller, less expensive 1740 p.s.i. version (adequate for deck washing). With either, you can wash the car in 10 minutes too!
I love Sun Joe, and no, I don’t work for them. I work for me.
These babies last for decades even with hard use. I cannot kill mine. (Be sure to get the rotating tip shown below: it’s not included but it protects wooden decks etc., from gouging).
Deck restoration is possible (unless you have rotted decking), but some makers are in legal trouble: class-action complaints. Jump down to #3: Restoring a deck in bad shape?
Fun fact: I did a deck treatment on my (big) deck last year. What does a professional painter use? See the end of Section #1 below! Or read about my favorite product a zero-maintenance wood stain you brush or spray
Paint or Stain Deck?
1. Think 5 years ahead
After you decide here whether you will paint or stain deck wood, read detailed posts about:
- what is the best deck paint, or
- the best deck stain/sealer,
- how to paint a deck or
- how to stain a deck.
New deck? Lucky you.
- Pressure-treated decking: Do you have the ‘green stuff’, (or brown stuff) … pressure-treated wood? Big caution here! Before you can decide what you will do with the deck, you need to read about what this wood will accept. See just below.
- New deck with water repellent added? Your wood dealer will know if repellent was added. Ask. The common process is called “Thompsonization”. You have to use oil-based stains with this. They told you that, right?
This rotating tip prevents you from gouging wood if you leave the pressure on one spot. This really should come with pressure washers! - Do you have a new deck, but not pressure-treated wood? Just gently wash with moderate water pressure, let dry. Read about how to paint or stain deck wood. (Links just above).
- Cedar? If you have cedar in a dry climate, you can take your time deciding. Cedar is the best naturally resistant wood. Some people never paint or stain deck make from cedar.
- New deck but kiln-dried wood? Go for it. No need to wait. Look at what’s on the market to paint or stain deck wood, in this section, just below.
Old deck? I’m with you amigo! Me too—have one that is. The most difficult job I do as a painter is paint removal. This includes ‘solid stain’ which is basically the same as paint. As Clint Eastwood said, “I guess you have to ask yourself one question.” Are you willing to take on the painful labor of scraping loose paint (opaque stain) every 5-7 years? To us, the intense labor is not worth it just for the painted look.
Recommendations
We make 2 recommendations to our customers and both are low-maintenance. Sometimes they prefer solid stains or paint, but we feel these two are best.
- Faced with this choice, most of my customers choose a semi-transparent stain. A low labor product is a semi-transparent stain because re-staining it is so easy. These come in colors, but color coverage is not as heavy as paint/opaque stain. That is a good thing! No build-up means no scraping. You simply refresh it every 3-7 years (depending on location) with no future prep cost (except a quick washing).
- The other one and my favorite (what I put on my home deck) is a ‘once-in-a-lifetime-treatment’. Well, we will see about my lifetime, but the product is very low-cost, easy to apply, non-toxic, and bugs and water and sun hate it. Read the full post on this Zero-Maintenance Deck Stain.
Pressure Treated Wood
Depending on your seller, this wood has a green or brown tint. But after the first few months and years of exposure, the color will slowly turn gray.
Some people just let treated lumber age and gray naturally: that is nice too, but if want some color and more protection (especially from the cracking on flat surfaces where water freezes), you can apply deck paint or deck stain.
When it is aged properly, you can do whatever you want….but…
Be careful here. The wood is likely still wet from the treatment and do you know what happens when you put deck coatings on wet wood? You don’t want to know. Hot climates may reduce this waiting time. There is no way to test when it’s time to paint or stain deck wood because the deck coating will look fine for a while even if the wood is too wet.
We say you should wait at least six months before staining pressure treated wood. Others say anywhere from 1-9 months. Discuss with YellaWood by email—they are king of pressure treated wood makers: they know the response of wood in your climate.
TIP: When prepping to paint or stain deck pressure-treated wood that is new, there is no need to sand it much: just scuff it with some medium sandpaper to break the surface barrier, then just apply light water pressure only: just remove the dust in the grooves: don’t try to remove the green/brown protection you paid for! You are ready for whatever treatment you select.
Why deck paint jobs go bad
It’s not necessarily neglect. The main cause of trouble decks is the poor preparation before the last paint job was done. If you skip the mess and pain of scraping and so on and just paint over it, ignoring the growing problem of peeling paint (while the wood underneath begins to rot), you are in a fix.
Not staying on top of loose paint is the major culprit (not to mention painting wet wood—oh, your methods, Marlon—oh, the horror, Mr. Brando).
What’s on the market today?
Deck stains and deck sealers change with the chemical industry.
- These are all listed in our deck paint/stain page (about deck supplies/prep tools etc).
Best Deck Paint: Ben Moore’s INSL-X ToughShield, hands-down the best deck paint.- Solid stain: the cleanest look of all, but much more work to maintain. If you choose to paint or use a solid stain, we recommend the so-called “#1” from DEFY satins (shown just below). In my view, it’s one of the best deck stains around.
- And don’t let the weather beat you: How? Do some annual maintenance and big-time maintenance when it comes time. That means spot scraping and touch-ups. Don’t miss a year after it begins.
- Semi-solid. Shows more grain than the above, but hides more imperfections that below. Very similar to semi-transparent. Low-maintenance.
- Semi-transparent stain. Now we’re talking. See the section below on this for more on our pick. Semi-transparent is our 2nd favorite method: low effort, low maintenance, medium protection from the elements and UV.
- Once-in-a-lifetime preservatives: What I used on my deck. Low effort, low cost, great protection. Really, there is no downside except limited colors, but that is true with many quality deck stains. See more just below. This Eco-Wood is my #1 choice.
- What NOT to use: Restore Products. We have been watching the big paint makers for some years and have been following some lawsuits involving some that have lost lawsuits making claims of greatness. At the bottom of this article is a little bit about that.
- The reason we recommend Benjamin Moore and other big-name makers, is that the research into the chemistry of deck and stain is state of the art. Yes, these cost more upfront, but that problem with peeling and failure you have read about will not happen with these big boys (unless it was applied when the deck was wet, etc). Plus, you don’t need to re-paint or re-stain nearly as often as you do with lesser brands.
Key Point—Stain vs. Paint
I use low-maintenance deck stain in my home.
Translucent, a.k.a. semi-solid and semi-transparent stains are like a clear sealant with some tint added. But that tint does offer more protection from UV.
Big plus: these products need one coat only—that usually does it. Read your label.
These deck stains are very easy to apply. Downside: they only last about 2-3 years on walking surfaces and about 4-5 on railings etc, depending on your climate, then you must re-apply. But this application is quick as there is no scraping or prepping other than a thorough washing. We recommend highly an electric pressure washer. (See #2 Removing Old Paint, below.)
TIP: to give your semi-transparent stain more power against wood’s graying, choose a darker color (more pigment = more UV filter).
What I used to stain decks at my home
I’m a lazy painter, so I only wanted to treat my deck once. I mean once in my lifetime. So I used what Parks Canada uses on structures like this one. If you are not into this, skip down to the next section, #2.
These 3 deck stains are all powders. Just mix with water and it’s easy to spray. I used this garden sprayer. (Big tip: keep nozzle wet when using and totally clean and dry in storage: years of service). It’s low-cost and you can control the pressure very easily (you need low pressure).
- Read about garden “backpack” sprayers and what stains they can shoot: some are just for very light stains, others do more.
- We also have a post about all the best paint sprayers: big time savers.
Definitely spray any of these 3 recommended products.
Overspray of Eco-Wood Treatment is not a big concern, but as with deck stain or deck paint, it leaves a film on glass and vinyl siding. No worries about overspray less visible things like stone. A gallon sprayed this way will do a small deck: it’s hard to think of coverage because there is overspray when you shoot railings etc. Return packages that you don’t open! Our post on this type of spray wood stain explains more.
Here are the 3 competing products:
- ECO-Wood Treatment comes in 5 colors, but I just used the non-tinted one shown here. From this photo link you can choose 1- or 5-gallon mix and your color. I corresponded with the company and the reply was that it can be once in a lifetime, but depending on climate, may need a re-do for more color. So if you want to refresh your color, repeat in about 5-10 years depending on your climate.
Valhalla Wood Preservative deck treatment seems to be the same. They stress that they have a formula for Wood Boring Insects (insert your own joke here), such as Carpenter Ants and Termites.- OneTime Wood Protector also seems very good. I read a long blog of someone chronicling the product: it has stood up to 3 winters and summers on the Great Lakes.
2. Removing old paint or stain?
Whether you will paint or stain deck material, here is the way: all these tools are grouped together in my deck prep section.
The key tool is water pressure: use it to remove paint, yes you read that right. See my one-minute video demo. Please be very careful with high-pressure water: it can severely cut your hands and feet etc. I sometimes recommend gasoline-powered washers and if you are set on one, this is it. Pricey, but with a Honda motor so you’ll find maintenance straightforward.
If the washer you buy does not have a rotating tip, buy one to protect your wood (a steady ‘fan’ of high-pressure water can easily gouge your wood). This one works with Sun Joe. The rotation protects the wood/surface from damage from water pressure.
Go electric
Then when dry, use electricity and really blast the paint off with a drill attachment or a variable speed grinder you see here, with the awesome 3M Sandblaster pads (also shown).
Here is a video of how it works. The grinder can also use a cutting wheel made with chips of diamond-like a hack saw that also cuts stone. You can try different pads for 4½-5-inch grinders too: some tools come with assorted washers so you get a tight fit.
Some Grinders may require the adapter rings for this pad. Handy to have as you might also buy the diamond cutting wheels etc. Fun.
Finally, it’s sandpaper time. Sorry to tell you, sanding is very hard work: use the rough stuff–50 grit or 80-grit in an electric orbital and/or belt sander. My sander is Dewalt (shown on the deck tools page). It works with any 5-inch hook and loop sandpaper, also shown on that page.
Note: this process cannot fix a rotting deck. (See at the bottom of this post all about the lawsuits of products that claim they can restore a deck). If it’s too far gone, go to the next section and read about replacement options.
We’ve seen lots of decks that suffer from neglect or poor treatment choice, but the plan of attack will be the same: strip off that rot down to the good wood and start over. What about scraping in between the deck boards and in the corners? Don’t do it, or just get what you can. You’ll be using a preservative that will protect (see my recommendations above).
3. Restoring a deck in bad shape?
Dishonest advertising has resulted in many people buying some problem products: see more in the next section: Freddy Kruger awaits you.
Best deck treatment for restore projects
None. There are none. Please trust me. Do the research. These things cannot save a deck.
Your wood is getting wet and slowly weakening. Ok, this is going to hurt. Like my bedside manner? You will need scrapers and the electric grinder or sander—and you follow Section #2 above. But if your deck is too far gone…
Don’t worry, there is light at the end of the tunnel, you can rest easy.
Let’s discuss a replacement.
Worst case: Deck restoration is urgent. Rot and weak lumber and you are going to need at least some sections of new lumber (or non-wood decking*) maybe in order and you need some experts to give you free estimates. If you think you can save the deck, by all means, spend your money on the sanding routine above, but it may be best and safest to just take out the bad sections and replace them.
Best deck stain for restore projects: More is Less
Well, folks, I deleted this section. The only product I had faith in is not out of productions. More just below.
4. Not as advertised: Shortcomings of Deck Restore Products
(The only one that we trust is in #3 above.)
- Deck resurfacing products are basically are extremely thick paint. The idea is to mask the wood cracks. It looks great at first, then one winter or even one summer and it’s all cracking. People are suing all companies (see below).
- These all have one thing in common—high failure rate. If you will paint or stain deck wood, be careful with these products.
LAWSUITS OF
- RUST-OLEUM RESTORE
- OLYMPIC RESCUE
- BEHR DECKOVER
Note: Thompson’s WaterSeal does not appear here, but my customers complain about its short lifespan: from our experience.
Lawsuit: Rust-Oleum Deck Restore
Even though they have lost this lawsuit, Rust-Oleum Deck Restore is still sold to unsuspecting consumers and has not been pulled from the shelves.
Consumers who have used the Rust-Oleum Deck Restore 1ox got their money back, but no other compensation was given.
Lawsuit: Olympic Rescue
Many customers are reporting the failure of this product and the company paid 6.5 million dollars to claimants in 2016, but still sell this product.
Lawsuit: Behr DeckOver
This lawsuit is just getting started, so I will just point you to topclassactions.com.Watch this pissed off customer. Ouch.
Now that you have decided whether to paint or stain deck (or hopefully not replace!), please go on to the details about your first step.
Ps, if you live in the Mississauga area, you want to call Mississauga Painters Ltd. They are excellent painters. They do residential and commercial, interiors and exteriors and have been at it for a long time. They have a long list of satisfied customers.
Related:
Be sure to have all the painter tools that you need
How to Stain a Deck Quickly, the Right Way
How to Paint a Deck With One Big Timesaving Tip
Best Deck Paint (with a Big Word of Caution)
Best Deck Stain and Sealer: Complications Simplified
Spray Wood Stain – Zero-Maintenance Deck Stain Treatment
Questions? Let us know in the comments anything about whether you might paint or stain deck.
I have an older/smaller deck in Colorado, previously was painted over ( Valspar latex porch that turns out was not deck rated as I had thought, but worked for 2 coats in 6 years) but the last round or so of paint didn’t hold as well and only got 6-8 months before peeling in lots of spots, I suspect the application on the last one was not ideal since the product did not change. I never really looked into many products as till recently I could get by with a little work every few years for the last 10-13 years (painted a total 4 times, mostly just patching). We were looking for suggestions on other products to paint with. We were targeting a Behr low-lustre Porch paint (rated for decks) over primer, as we could color match and not have to repaint more than the deck boards (it is only 8’x10′).
Its fully prepped for paint/primer, we went a bit overboard and belt then orbital sanded it to take down some of the layers so its about 60% clean wood on the flat boards/stairs, then all was washed. The railing would take forever if we were to either fully strip or sand, which would be more than the work I have been doing to repair paint every couple years. It has never peeled much and has no issues so trying to not mess with it.
Looking for suggestions into any better options short of stripping the rest and handrail, which at this point would be more than the maintenance on the paint I have had to do in the last 6-8 years. I believe semi-solid stain is better, and there are better paints, but not sure any others that can color match/avoid stripping. Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Six years is not that bad depending on location. Yes, it was probably wet somewhat: it can look dry and not be dry enough to paint.
My basic philosophy is to buy the best product to create the least maintencne as that is worth a lot more than a few extra dollars for good paint. Who wants to scrape?
I think you keep going: take an afternoon every summer and scrape, prime and paint the cracking paint. Behr? mmm. Does not live up to commercials. But ok. Sander is ok, but look at the grinder I recommend on this site. Rips off paint and then you sand.
Don’t fully strip, or do so and then really stay on top of it every year. If you have a Sherwin W or Ben Moore shop nearby, get that paint and primer. Pick their brains.
Yes, with stains you get less color options, but yes, big yes, low solid stains are very easy to prep and re-do compared to paints. Hope this helps. In the end, you are in for some work. Maybe find a teenage boy to scrape and you do the easy stuff? ha ha
Hi Brad, thank you for your informative article. A highly reputable hardware store recommends ZAR® Solid Color Deck & Siding Coating. The deck wood floor has peeling paint and narrow split openings in the planks.
Per a Zar technical rep with whom I spoke, this coating has fiber to help seal the wood openings; the coating is supposed to last five years.
Do you have a point of view on this product please? We’ll need to paint instead of stain.
Thank you and God bless.
I don’t know that specific product, but I know many deck ‘restore’ products are crap. They say they fill the cracks and you think you’ll have a long lasting deck. Nope. Some of them got sued.
You cannot repair aged wood, but you can slow down the degradation. So give it a try, but don’t have high hopes. Let me know in a couple of years what happened!
Brad
Thank you for your kind response and professionalism, Brad – very appreciated. All the best to you and God bless, Patrick
Hi Brad,
I know this is specific to decks, but what about wood porches? What products/ oils, stains, polys, etc would you recommend for wood porches? For example I have a 1905 home with a North facing covered porch. I just stripped and sanded 100 years of paint and junk off of the fir wood and now am super conflicted with next steps. I love the natural appearance of the wood, but being in the PNW worry about moisture and know this wood has to be protected. I was originally planning to use General Finishes Outdoor Oil in Clear but now not sure oiling the wood is the best choice. Painting seems a shame, but also the standard. Poly worries me in that I don’t like the peeling that you read inevitably occurs. Thoughts?
Hi. Yes, I’d do something if I were you. Personally, I don’t worry about looks but just go for preservation and low maintenance, little work to do when the next time comes. I like stains that can do that. In 5 years or 10, you just pressure wash, wait for the wood to dry, and then restain.
Stains with low solids like semi-transparent. Definitely not opaque which is just paint.
That’s my 2c.
B
Thank you so much for the reply! What types of stains do you recommend? What products? I’ve been researching online and it’s such a mixed bag of information as I’m sure you know.
I’ve written my opinons on this site. Really, you get what you pay for so buy the best and you will save the most money… it’s good logic.
b
You are so thorough in your explanations but I have to be sure! I’m in northern Utah.
My very large gigantic deck (11×20 plus 18×18 with a walkway connecting) has a patio underneath that needs to be kept dry, so the previous owner laid down 4×8 plywood over the deck planks and put outdoor carpet on it. The birds were pulling up the carpet fibers so we removed all the carpet and left the 4x8s with no protection. (Bad idea) Now I want to replace the bad 4x8s with fresh 4x8s and paint it with something to protect the 4x8s and hopefully have it somewhat slip resistant. Recommendations?
Also— the wooden balusters and top railing (95 running feet) have some badly peeling white paint that I’d like to re-paint and not have to do it very often. Some of the white paint on the balustrades can be removed and some not. The color underneath is reddish, maybe a natural cedar?
After reading your article, I’m thinking the InsulX Sure-step for the decking with a BIN primer and tough shield floor for the railings with the same primer.
Am I on the right track?
Yes all that sounds fine. Just wondering if you trap water in wood under the plywood? Recipie for rot. No? I cannot see it so I don’t know.
On the walking area, you can sprinkle silica or sand. Follow the steps I wrote on the post here.
If the wood is pressure treated, it won’t bond with paint like normal wood so you’ll be doing more upkeep. If pressure treated, I’d not paint at all frankly. Reddish color may be that. Doubt it’s redwood as that’s super expensive…never know.
Pick a few days with no rain and you’ll be all set…good luck.
Hi Brad! Thank you for the great site and information! Also, I’m about the least handy/DIY person in existence, but giving this a whirl, lol.
I have a 20’ish year old wood deck that was never cared for properly. I’m wanting to bring it back to life as much as possible, though not going ALL OUT because I plan to move in the next couple of years, but do want to bring it back to usable/presentable, lol. So I’ve decided to keep the railings and posts, but had brand new boards laid down; so basically left with a partially brand new and partially old deck; with the hopes of making it as uniform as possible. So I was thinking painting would definitely be the way to go.
The new boards are AC2® green pressure-treated thick pine, and the technical specs from the website say comes with a first season built-in water repellent. The rails/posts are naturally dirty and need a good cleaning, and were either stained or painted previously, I’m just not sure which. All that blabbing just to say I’m unsure about what sort or preparation would be needed for each the new wood boards and old wood rails/posts. Things like I’m not sure how long I’d need to wait to do anything with the new boards, whether I need to sand either the boards or rails/posts, or just pressure wash all of it to make sure the entire deck is clean ahead of time. I just feel entirely lost on the whole thing. Thank you for any guidance you might have!
Yes, I think you are right. But careful painting pressure-treated wood. They say you can but I have seen a lot of failures.
Not sure if you have paint already but if not, and your selling anyway, why not put a clear deck oil?
Best bet is to call an OLD painter and get ideas, since I cannot see it.
He’ll tell you about the prep too. You can pick his brain and DIY!
GOod luck,
b
Hi Brad. Thanks for the informative articles. Very helpful to us DIYers!
I’m replacing my deck rail with aluminum rail (except keeping the wood posts) and the deck floor is also peeling in places so its time to retreat the whole deck while I’m at it. Its been painted with SuperDeck twice (never primed). If I have to strip or sand off all the paint anyway, do I have the option of staining, or am I now locked into painting because it was previously painted?
If I decide I’d rather stain and I have a few spots where I filled in with wood filler, will that show through the stain? If yes I may have to default to repainting so those spots don’t show. I originally decided to paint because it supposedly lasts a lot longer than staining but I didn’t find that to be true. Of course that may be because I didn’t know how to prep correctly.
I plan on using a contrasting color to the brown aluminum rail – can’t wait to see how it turns out.
Thanks!
Yes, I think you are locked in unless you want to strip it all and grind the paint out of the grain which would remove a lot of wood… not good.
If the paint that is tight is ok, yes, just leave it. It will loosen for next time, then you remove it. Just set your mind to do some work on it every year for about one day and you’ll extend the life for many years. I’m going with a STEEL deck when my old wood can’t be trusted (one story up). Money but only once!
Good luck
Thank you! You just lightened my workload for this whole project significantly LOL.
Hi! I just had a brand new deck built last year with PT wood. We stained it right away with semi-transparent stain, probably a big mistake. This year, I’m seeing the boards turning black and under the boards are also moldy black. What went wrong? What can I do to preserve my only 1 year new deck? Now that we are going into winter soon in MD, will it be ok if I wait until Spring to repair?
Yes probably not good to do anything for some time… but here we are. I would think you should pressure wash every square inch with a rotating tip and just wait for spring.
Time will even out the look to a gray then maybe try a translucent stain again?
Good luck.
B
Ps, call some old painters for opinions. Not young ones.
Thank you
I have an older neglected deck and used restore a deck semi transparent stain. A little of it is pealing off after a year of hot rainy Alabama weather but a lot still looks good. Was wondering if I could use Ecowood on it now or do I have to chemically strip all of the old stain off. Tganks
No, unless you strip all the coatings, you won’t get penetration with EcoWood.
I’d strip with a grinder… see the Bosch variable speed above.
The bright side is you will get a new deck soon. Uh, oh, yeah, not so good.
I’d do all you can to save it. It’s going to be painful, but just take it in small sections and drink a lot of beer!
b
Thank you for the great article
Brad – I have a 3 year old PT deck that I’m just beginning to stain. I pressure washed (possibly a bit too vigorously) and used DEFY’s cleaner and brightener. But I can’t seem to get rid of these green areas. I’m pretty sure they’re mildew… but maybe they are just the PT chemical?
No, if it’s 3 years old the green is probably mold/mildew.
Take a photo and take it to the paint store to be sure.
Blast with pressure should do the trick, but maybe you need to grind/sand down to wood.
Sorry I cannot be of more help.
B
Thank you for the great article .
I wanted to know if I can use 2 coats of Tough Shield on my deck and one topcoat of SureStep? My deck is 500sq feet and porch adds 200 more. The paint is getting expensive. Only using SureStep means 14 gallons at $42 each OR 7 SureStep and 4 ToughShield. One other question CoverStain can says it is not recommended for floors. You recommend it though to prime a deck, correct?
Yes and yes. As long as you follow the labels’ directions re. coating times, re-coating that is, they should all bond to each other.
CoverStain not on floors? Did not know, but I’ve never looked for that application. Makes sense. Floor paint is really very different.
If that did not answer your question, please write again.
Good luck,
B
Need to redo my deck. I have been doing this every year for the last 4 years because it peels/flakes. A little guidance would be nice. How do I add pictures?
I’ve attached a photo you sent so others can see.
Without seeing in person, and from my experience, I have 2 ideas and only one solution.
From what I’ve seen in my career, either the wood was pressure-treated (the green or brown stuff) and was not primed properly, or was normal decking wood but too young (not aged) when it was painted/stained.
My only recommendation is going to be intense, but you should get 5 years with normal upkeep.
My approach would be to buy or rent or borrow a good pressure washer and try to strip every bit of what you have on there now. That rotating tip on this page above is key to prevent damage to the wood.
That will perhaps take off 80-90%, then grab your grinder also on this page above. Just take off every bit down into the wood. You might consider tougher grinder pads that really can do some intense sanding.
Then, I like PrimeLock shown near the top of this page which is an exterior-ok primer that will really bond.
Then use your paint of choice. For the non-slip near the pool, add silica shown on this page.
Good luck! Send me ‘after’ pics if you think of it!
b
As usual very helpful post.
I love all of this information and they are so simple and easy to implement! Thank you.
My deck was neglected by the previous owner for maybe 20 years, with no coatings at all. I have painted it twice in the past 4 years, once each year with Sherwin Williams SuperDeck Paint, water based. The only prep I did was washing it down each time. Never used a primer. The wood had hundreds of cracks in it. The first time the wood soaked up the thin paint big time. Over the past 2 years I’ve had to replace 3 of the boards due to rotting. Not quite sure of the SW paint was great or not, the wood was in bad shape to begin with, and I failed to use primer. I want to give it a coat every year or two to keep from replacing boards. Now that it’s got two coats of paint over the past 4 years, do I need to use the primer before I paint it again ? And what do you think of the SW Super Deck Paint ? It’s got mixed reviews. And how about the Rustoleum Rock Solid 2X Resurfacer Paint ? It got great reviews. The 6X one got mixed reviews.
Hi. I do think highly of all SW paints and the mixed reviews are often by people who did not apply it correctly or did not prep correctly.
In your case, not using a primer was indeed a mistake, but you can recover.
The way I would go about it is to remove all the paint you can with a pressure washer (rotary tip is key) then a grinder: you can see the pressure washer at the top of this page and the grinder and wheel I use in the middle of the page. The variable speed on the grinder is key as the ones made for metal etc are too high speed and melt paint.
Once I have all the paint that will come off, I’d wash again, let dry and pick a dry warm spell of weather to prime, then paint.
Use oil exterior primer: either Block Out or Zinsser’s best oil exterior primer. Exterior contracts and expands: never use interior primers outside, same is true for paints.
Then the SW paint is fine over that. I prefer the Tough Shield from Ben Moore’s INSL-X, but both are great. There are many other good choices,….
but prep is key!
Good luck.
If you like, send me photos before, during and after, and I’ll write a new post about deck primers. Writing this reply shows me there is a need. We’ll be able to help others in our spot.
Enjoy!
B
We used SW super deck on our older deck, the previous owners stain had worn off and boards looked bare.
Now every morning the deck is soaked with dew. Why is it holding water? This has rendered the deck unusable in the mornings when I live to sit on the stairs and watch my dog run in backyard.
Any ideas why the deck is always wet now, railings too almost dripping with moisture? SW says they have no idea.
This never was the case before? Very odd.
I think it is possible that the paint, like a rock or any object outside gets cold and then warm and grabs the water out of the air. This must be because the new paint is heavier. i am only guessing here.
Sorry I cannot help more. I guess just keep a mop or towel handy?
Best of luck
I Agree! Thought I would try this product since my deck is 12 years old and started having some small cracks in it. Did all the prep work and now, 1 year later, it looks like crap! Now I have to sand it all down and start completely over yet they still sell this crap at stores! Where do I find the link for the lawsuit? Any advice would be helpful…
-Todd from Minnesota
Not sure which product you used, but the link to the info is here. Maybe too late.
Scrape it all off, replace boards as needed, and use a good primer!
I used the Rustoleum 6X solid state stain/paint….I usually use a basic stain but thought I would try this product since I started seeing some cracks in the wood. Big Mistake!
I Agree! Thought I would try this product since my deck is 12 years old now and started having some small cracks in it. Did all the prep work and now, 1 year later, it looks like crap! Now I have to sand it all down and start completely over yet they still sell this crap at stores! Where do I find the link for the lawsuit? Any advice would be helpful…
-Todd from Minnesota
This is some very useful information! We’ll be sure to pass it on to our customers. Thanks!
Hello brad,
Arborcoat looks like a quality product. Do I have to remove all the old stain or just rough the top of it for adhesion . I have a pressure washer and when I started to clean the deck it started to remove some of the old stain. The rotating power nozzle is very strong. what percent of the old stain do I remove , as much as I can or just what is loose?
Thanks Steve
Hello brad
I used an oil based solid stain by Olympic 6 years ago , my deck is beside the lake so a lot of sun, it is no longer available so I am at a loss of what to use , I have minimal cracking in the wood and no peeling.what do you recommend?
I always went with Arborcoat but any high-end solid stain is good. Spend more here and you’ll save in the end: labor and you won’t be re-doing as often. Do a very very good prep job: scrape, sand, wash etc. Good luck!
Brad
August 8, 2019
I used Rustoleum restore on my deck 5 years ago and have not had a problem. I don’t have any peeling or any signs of any type of failure. Knowing that moisture would be a problem, I painted a thin coat on first and let it cure. Then I rolled on two coats of the thicker product letting it cure each time. I followed the instructions for cleaning the prepping the deck before applying the product. I think the product was good if applied properly. Now, the only problem I have is what to use to recoat the deck.
Well done indeed. I think the lawsuits are coming from the many people who thought these products would cure the rot, or stop the rot. I think to re-coat, use the same thing in the same way. Thanks for this info: I’ll remember it and pass it on.
B
I have a deck that is older but sturdy. I used restore about 12 years ago, it held up well now it is starting to peel. I already power washed and scrapped. Only the loose paint came off. What product would you recommend?
Wow, congrats. 12 years is great. I’d just be happy to take off what comes off, then spot-paint. First prime bare wood with good (oil) primer, then touch up. Lucky you. You’d be shocked at the nightmares people tell me about deck restore products.
B
Hi, Brad! I have a new pressure treated wood covered porch that faces south. It was built last summer. I was hoping to stain it this fall, but I want all the vertical parts to be white and the floor gray. I’d prefer the look of paint, but I’m leaning towards semi-transparent for the sake of maintenance. My problem is I can’t find any semi-transparent stains in white. If I use the clear primer you recommended earlier, would I get more life out of an opaque stain? What exactly is the best process for prepping a pressure treated deck/porch that’s never had anything applied to it yet? Thanks for any help you can offer!
Hi. It’s funny but some things, like floor paint, are hard to find in white. Painter’s pants are white because it’s the most common color! Anyway, I did some testing of a once in a lif3etime stain… eco-friendly and you can add color. It’s not very opaque, not at all like paint…But please think this through— you love the look of paint on a porch, we all do. But…south-facing esp… paint and opaque stain (same thing) will chip, need scraping, etc and you will be doing this every so many years. Uff. Hard work too. Have a look at semi-transparent (they need upkeep) or the Eco-Wood that I mentioned: you would only re-do to freshen color, but that would never be necessary otherwise. My vote: no maintenance.
The Eco wood white is not very white: very transparent. Watch my video on it:
For prep, just pressure wash and let dry totally. You have waited long enough: new wood must age.
Good luck.
b
I am actually looking to refinish a 2nd hand wooden playset. Wanted to do the house part red with white trim, and was looking for recommendations. I’m not sure if it’s painted or opaque stain. I was planning on power washing and sanding some spots if needed. What would you suggest for the floor? I’d rather not have to redo it in a few years. I picked up kilz barn paint for the house part, thoughts? Should I get something else?
Hi. I never tried Kilz Barn, but can’t be bad. The prep is key, yes wash and scrape, then prime raw wood, and 2 coats paint. For the floor, if exposed to the elements or even if not, use ToughShield from Ben Moore: not to worry about the abuse kids will wreak. You cannot keep the elements from making you re-do in some years. My approach: yearly spot scrape and paint. Never needs a full job that way: takes an hour.
Good luck
Rustoleum 6x Deck Restore is a terrible product. I paid $1500 for their prep paint and deck paint to end up having to strip it all off and use a different paint. It does not live up to all of Rustoleums promises. Avoid their deck products at all costs. TERRIBLE WASTE OF MONEY AND TIME
Thanks for this.
I Agree! Thought I would try product this since my deck started having some small cracks in it. Did all the prep work and now, 1 year later, it looks like crap! Now I have to sand it all down and start completely over yet they still sell this crap at stores! Where do I find the link for the lawsuit? Any advice would be helpful…
-Todd from Minnesota
I have a pressure treated wood, 19 year old approximately 12×12 deck and bad knees. Would a hardwood floor sander work for the sanding step?
Hi. I’ve never tried it. I’m worried the edge of the circular sandpaper would catch in the gaps between the decking floor, if you have that. My advice is to stop by home depot with some photos on a phone, camera, and ask about the rental. They have a guy in most stores with experience in just about everything. Just don’t ask in the paint department as they hire drones who really cannot answer basic questions!! I’ve tested them! But the ‘expert desk’ or whatever they call it is usually very helpful. Good luck. PS, now that I think about it, why not try a 1/2 day rental. If no go, then hire a teen and give him some character!
Frank, I used a square buff floor sander that I rented at Home Depot with 60 & 120 grit sandpaper. It worked great and saved me so much time. My deck is 20×24 pressure treated also.
The ‘expert desk’ or whatever they call it in most home depots usually have someone who knows all about everything…or they know how to find out. Good resource when you rent.
We just rented an “orbital deck and floor sander” from Home Depot I think it was $45 for 4 hours and it was easy to use and easy on my back. We used the 36 grit sandpaper at first but the 20 grit was better at removing layers of paint. Good luck!
Good advice.
Hi Brad,
I used Olympic Rescue on my wood deck a couple of years ago and now its peeling badly. Is it too late to be a part of the class action lawsuit? Anyway I power washed my deck, ( 11 hp. 4.5gal minute gas power washer), but there is still some of the product remaining on the wood. I would like to use the “once in a lifetime “product you mentioned.The wood on my deck was in like new condition before I put the Olympic Restore on it. When I power washed the deck I used a turbo nozzle and chewed up a couple of boards so I have to replace them and also a couple of boards on the sides that have rotted. I have a palm sander and a grinder ,which one would you suggest using to remove the stuff that remains on my deck? Also should I go over the whole deck with a sander to smooth out any rough spots caused by the power washer. What grits should I use on the sander and or grinder?Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. This has been a nightmare .I’m so aggravated about this!
Hi. I think it’s too late, but follow that link to see. Depends when you did it and when you file I think. You used the rotating tip so the wood you lost was a healthy process: good to get rid of it. Safer that way. Consider Bondo for some boards if the rot is removed and you just have a big hole, but the Eco Wood Stain will not penetrate Bondo, is my guess. EcoWood will be a good choice for your deck if you can get all that old stuff off. Yes, grinder with a rough pad is what we’d do. Sander in the end just to take off splinters of wood after the grinder. Grit? Maybe 40 on the grinder and 80 on the sander? That is just from my memory. Get the grinder wheel if it makes sense. You may need the adapter kit for your grinder. This is mine.
A good scraper and good metal file will come in handy: keep your scraper blade sharp. I have a video how to: just search site for “scraper”.
A drill attachment is also good: using electricity is the way to go whenever possible.
I know what you feel: it’s a mess. But decks cannot last forever: they have to be replaced. Our job is to delay that. Work hard with the knowledge that you will be done for a very long time. Take it section by section and feel good that each square foot is good before you move on. Spend the summer getting in your exercise! Stock up on grinder wheels!