Whether you are painting wood trim that real wood or a budget material called MDF etc, or anything else, painting trim inside your home is very straight-forward, and the tricks…oh, the tricks.
Here are the 3 basic steps, then we expand them all below.
- The tool arsenal: not what you might expect
- The method for painting trim like us pros
- Clean up: we show how easy it really can be
If you already have experience and just want to know what we use:
Primer: For stained/varnished wood or unpainted wood, we don’t want to go back and find stains bleeding through our weak primers. After sanding, we use the very best wood primer, as it blocks all stains (including wood knots that may take a year to bleed through) and creates the bonding that keeps the paint from flaking off. Read more about primer to block stains in our post.
Paint: After the prep on the trim is done, we use either the very best in trim paint, Advance which is water-based, but behaves and looks just like oil-based paints always did. However most customers want to spend a little less and costs about half as much as Advance, looks good, holds its color forever, and can be scrubbed clean. It’s a little faster to apply, making it a high-quality money-saving choice. Oh to have a nickel for every gallon of this we have used.
Read details about high-quality paint for trim here.
Jump to your section:
- Looking for exterior trim info? Jump to this section.
- Are you also painting the walls? First, read the main section just below about painting trim, then there is a section on a very big time-saving tip for you.
- Are you painting stained/varnished wood trim? We explained it all in a separate post: please read about painting stained trim after you read the section below on painting wood trim in general.
Painting wood trim as fast as a pro:
People are shocked at how fast we go: well, the truth is, it’s magic…NOT.
There are 2 big tips coming up, but here is the main thing: we use a (that does not shed lint) and a (that doesn’t shed bristles).
Ever see paint on walls with tiny little hairs? That is from the budget rollers that come in a kit—you’ve seen them…with the tray, all wrapped in plastic.
There’re more tools in #1 below.
1. The tool set-up makes all the difference:
As you can see in the main photo at the top of this page, a basic professional trim painting set-up consists of a roller and brush, a bucket and a screen (grid). We don’t use pans/trays for rollers—ever! Pans spill and you can step in them—delightful. The dolly shown here is just a bonus for moving along the trim without picking up the bucket…the type for mop buckets works great too.
We have gathered these tools and more (like plastic, tape, drop cloths, etc) — on the painting tools page. You will like that they are not that expensive and will last a homeowner a lifetime. We have links below on how to easily and quickly clean them.
Why a roller? As you will see below and in our short video, we get 100% of the needed paint from the bucket to the workpiece with the roller and then just tip it out with a quality brush.
At the very least you will need: sandpaper, drop cloths, a good light, and more. A fan, spackle, and of course knee pads: I would never work, even doing house cleaning, without them. It’s all on that page.
If you buy the ‘dollar-saver’ roller cover and brush, you’ll wish you didn’t: the roller covers will shed lint and the brushes loose bristles. Ours never do.
2. The method: This is at least 3x faster than you go now
- Before you paint, prep is key: jump to the prep info below for painting wood trim or painting trim in any condition.
- If the surface of the trim is greasy/oily like handprints around doorknobs, etc, you can just wipe with a damp cloth to remove the dust and then paint. Often you must sand down some spots like dust in the old paint. If you do, that dust from the sanding should be wiped off. Otherwise, get painting. Often we do not do any other prep if the surface is clean.
- Masking? We only use masking tape in tight corners, but feel free to mask. The has special glue: when the tape is removed, this glue will not pull off even fresh paint. The tan masking tape can pull off even cured paint after 24 hrs.
- Here is the biggest tip I can give anyone—don’t brush trim paint! Roll out a section of your workpiece with a normal short-nap you might also use for walls. We prefer the wool/poly blend: wool absorbs and poly gives long life.
- With the rolled, wet paint on the trim just use the tip of the brush to smooth out the rolled paint. This removes the ‘nap marks’ and with the paint on the brush, without dipping, do what you cannot touch with the roller.*
- With Benjamin Moore’s Advance paint, you can just roll. No brush needed except where the roller cannot reach.
- That’s it. Easy cleanup info is just below.
Not only is this FAR faster than just brushing, but because it goes so fast, you don’t see ‘lap marks’ where the new wetter section overlaps the last now drying section. When brushing you are going slower and you see more overlap marks. When dry these lap marks have more texture: not so good for painting wood trim.
* We use the it almost magically cuts a line by itself and it will last a homeowner a lifetime. Also key is the (a.k.a. cage) with the above cover makes our bread and butter.
Picking your finish trim paint:
With or the now ‘old-fashioned’ oil-based paints, you don’t need to ‘tip-out’ the brush marks. Latex, however, dries much faster and the roller and brush marks will always be visible. Do your best to make it flat.
If you want to use the traditional latex paint, like our 2nd fav but you want to minimize brushstrokes, to your water-based paint: it ‘flows’ and increases the drying time. This gives the brushmarks a chance to even out more. It works.
If you are painting the walls as well as the trim
Paint the trim first. There someone finally said it. This is fully explained in our post about painting the trim first, but the key point is that cutting the line between trim and wall is MUCH easier when the last cut is on the wall, not the trim.
- Paint the trim and don’t worry about getting trim paint on the soon-to-be-painted wall.
- Then paint the wall and don’t be afraid to get a little wall paint on your new trim.
- Then if needed, go back and touch up trim. Easy and fast.
The basics of prep for painting wood trim:
- Pre-painted trim needs a quick sanding with 150 grit sandpaper and a wipe down with a damp cloth (and allowed to dry). You are ready to paint. A shortcut here is using a toxic but effective de-glosser. Same effect as sanding, but no dust. Please, please, please open windows and wear a respirator: this stuff is the nasty.
- Starting out with stained/varnished wood trim? We explained that case in our post about painting stained trim: it’s not as simple, but anyone can do it.
- Untreated wood of any type, the best primer is by Benjamin Moore. It’s oil-based so buy an oil-compatible brush: the can be used with latex as well, but we find that once it touches oil, it’s never like new again. For priming, we buy less expensive brushes and, sorry to say this, we toss them. If you want, clean up with mineral spirits, however… We just don’t: it’s not worth the brush you get to keep.
- For faux wood or MDF etc, that has never been coated, use the same primer above, Prime Lock Plus. It will not raise the soft grain more than the hard which creates the bumpy look. Also, it totally blocks wood knots and other stains. These stains can take a year to bleed through into your top-coats.
For painting wood trim outside the home
You will be using some different products, but the basic method of the roller/brush combo above is exactly the same. What’s the best paint for house trim? Most of our customers like low-luster or satin on a house body and semi-gloss on the trim.
3. Clean up: it’s really not that messy and goes quick.
For rollers covers, there are two ways: easy and fast. This is for quality roller covers as mentioned above.
The easy way is to fill a large bucket with water (latex paints, obviously) and set the cover on its end overnight. 90% of the paint will fall to the bottom of the bucket.
Either repeat again for some hours, maybe overnight, or just squeeze with your hands or even better with the curve in your multi-tool or brush comb.
The fast way is to use a spinner. Slide the cover on the end, dunk in water, and hold in an empty (large) bucket. Pump the piston and the roller spins dry. Repeat. It’s quick.
Watch me do it. (YouTube)
For quality brushes, after you wire brush off any dried paint from the heel of the brush. just submerge in water or solvent and pound the bristles about 20 times. Change your solvent and repeat. With a good brush like Purdy, you only need to get about 95% of the paint out. More is better, as dried paint will slowly turn it into a club. Before allowing to dry, comb with even a regular hair comb so the bristles are good to go next time. If you don’t have the cover, wrap with paper and tape.
Watch me do it. (YouTube)
Tip: we also put hair conditioner from the shower as a final rinse every few cleanings. This replaces what the bristles lose. Be sure to rinse it well.
That’s our method of painting wood trim (really painting trim of any type) and painting wood trim or any material. So many people have asked us how to paint trim and how to paint baseboards with carpet (just use cardboard as a shield). Painting trim could be done with just a brush, but there is not a difference when you use a roller and a brush.
Let us know your thoughts and how you paint trim in the comments below.
- Pick your primer in our post on when you need a stain blocking primer: it’s the essential step before painting trim
- Pick the best paint for trim and for your cabinets or trim
- If you are converting from the wood look to paint, read the essential extra steps you must take to not have a disaster while painting your trims.
Here is a professional painter’s set up for painting trim: