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Brad,
I’m redoing a solid stained deck and plan on doing a semi trans coating for the horizontal surfaces and keeping solid stain on the railing surface. Using a stripper has worked quite well for the deck boards thankfully. Your recommended semi trans stains appear to all be water based. How do I know if these are film forming or penetrating? I don’t want to have to re strip everything 3 years from now. Also, for Cabot semi trans do you recommend the water or oil based version? Almost everything I read online outside of your page recommends oil based.
Oil is best for exteriors but water based products are getting better every year and are much less hassle. If you can handle the smell and clean up of oil… Go for it.
I think the first coat will always penetrate, dry and the 2nd coat will sit on top. But for decks, you only do 1 coat usually, so it’s just that it soaks in and dries and protects. OVer time it magically vanishes and you have to do it all again. But there are worse ways to spend a day.
Thank you for responding, I ask because the 3 you recommend (defy, #1 deck, and Cabot low voc) are all water based .
I think they are all about the same. Generally, you get better quality solids, better components when you pay more… Impossible to know really. Cabot has been around a long time, but the others are also well known.
Hello Brad – great driveway coating article!!
I’m thinking Adcoat is out of business. Couldn’t find it anywhere.
Looked at your Kilz driveway 1 part expoxy you suggested but the link to the primer doesn’t work.
I live in Central FL – drive way is 26 years old. Lots of spider cracks that I’m repairing with a flexible concrete crack filler that is self leveling and I’m putting kniviing off the excess.
Can you update date me with the products you are suggesting/using currently??
Thx – Bill
I found them on facebook. I’ll have a look at where people can buy the products. Thanks for writing.
Hello Brad
Thank you so much for all the info. quick question.
landlord here with a vacant house I had tested for lead.
I have received my lead RRP certificate
there are areas I will replace, like all doors, or go over surfaces like the stairs or window sill
some areas I plan to encapsulate like the baseboard, casing.
all the same original trimwork, but it appears that some rooms may have been painted more times as some of the baseboard is hot, but the room next to it falls just below the threshold.
I plan to wash, wet scrape, prime and encapsulate the hot areas.
would it be prudent to also just do the same encapsulation steps to the other baseboards throughout that may have been covered over with more paint?
the threshold is 1.0
these test say 0.6, 0.7
i assume if my guys lightly sand this and paint as if it were normal, could disturb it.
my state allows a 20 year encapsulation product
I contacted ben moore.
the inslyx lead block is not 20 year. do you know of any you recommend that are?
thanks!
I am not a lead paint specialist, and you should definitely ask this question of a pro, but in my view, I would not sand or scrape any of it. At least not as an amateur. I would, if de-glossing is necessary as when you put latex over old oil etc, use a liquid de-glosser. On this site there’s a link somewhere. This stuff.
No I don’t know of any better encapsulating paint. I don’t think you get more than 20 years out of any paint. If you have the money, hire a company to remove all the paint and start fresh. Hope this works out for you. The good news: at some point you WILL be done.
b
What is your opinion on TWP products? I have to reapply every year. I previously used Cabot. Thanks!
Painters that I know do use and like it. The long term protection I cannot comment, but seems good. Don’t use any ‘deck restore’ product of any company. Axiom.
I think if you read instructions and be careful you should have a good job. COnsider an in person look from an OLD painter for best advice.
Brad
Hi Brad,
I have several exposed Cedar beams in a patio extension that was completed on my house 4 years ago. Some are exposed to the sunlight and weather.
What is your suggestion for protecting those beams? I have done some spot testing with a cedar natural tone stain & sealer penetrating oil.
Yes a good sealer, oil. But remember cedar is one of those woods that can last a very long time with no treatment. But to keep it from discoloring doe to the light, yes, some sealer. Buy the best to not be disappointed!
Hi Brad,
I like the info and instruction sheet for the Adcoat Industries Garage Floor & Driveway Paint you mention. Do you know if they are still in business? Their website and phoneare not working. What would be your alternate 2 part epoxy recommendation?
Thank You.
Thanks for catching that. I see a facebook page for them. So much is unavailable these days, it’s sad. My best advice is to call a local paint store and see what they can get you.
Good luck sorry I cannot be of more help.
b
Hi Brad, I just had my upper deck rebuilt with treated wood from Menards 6weeks ago. The lower deck was in decent shape soo I can scrub and sand it to use the Behr’s paint I just purchased. How long do I have to wait to paint the new deck? It’s been hot in NW Indiana all week without rain and should rain for at least 4-5 more days. I’ve heard I should wait 6 months but that works man waiting until February or March and we get a lot of snow in Chicagoland. Should I wait or is 6-7 weeks long enough drying time?
Looming disaster. I have found that pressure treated wood does not hold paint well. Sure at first, and the maker says you can paint it. My advice: don’t ever. I’ve seen peeling galore. Just stain with some color, not much solids. I like Eco wood stain see it on this site.
If you insist, wait until next summer. Let it bake and freeze for a year. Also, maybe do a test spot of paint after 6-9 months which will be spring anyway. Then at the end of that summer see how the bonding is. I bet it’s flaking in 2-5 years. What a mess waiting for you.
Hope this helps.
B
Thanks for your answer.
Is the Behr “solid color Stain and sealer “ a disaster waiting to happen?
Behr is sort of B-grade. Ben M and Sherwin are tops. Solid stain is paint. Not like paint, it’s paint. You’ll have to scrape later. It’s a choice.
b
Also… Is this a good choice?
Behr waterproofing stain and sealer solid color.
I’d say no. Go to a pro paint store and ask. But Behr is an ok company. Just that solid stain is paint
What’s your advice for estimating paint jobs? I have used my gut and estimated jobs based on how long it will take me at my hourly rate. But I wanted to make sure I wasn’t leaving money on the table or what I “should” be charging so I bought the 2023 National Paint Cost Estimator guide by Dennis Gleason. However, this is pricing jobs at very cheap estimates. I have also looked at websites like Fixr.com, but they give me ranges. i.e. $3-4 sq ft for walls.
Do you have rules of thumb for cost per square foot for walls and linear feet for trim?
That is what I do. I don’t use sq ft or anything like that. I keep it to small jobs. I know my time: 2 rooms per day if walls and trim etc. I charge a hefty sum and only work 5 hrs/ day then I relax. I’m old tho ha ha.
You’ll know you are too high when you don’t get any work, and too low when you have no food ha ha.
If you go big as a contractor, yes, learn to do the price by looking at the blueprints, but not me.
Good luck!
Hey Brad. What is the best paint to apply to an old concrete floor that has an older coat of porch paint on it. About 15 percent of the paint has come up in spots after a thorough cleaning . This is inside of an old warehouse and will have a lot of got traffic but no cars. Grinding the entire floor back down to raw concrete is not an option. I can send pictures if need.
I’m assuming the space will stay heated. If not you need exterior paint as it is softer and expands with temp.
First put masonry primer on the raw concrete, yes grind it down a little and clean first.
For the other 85%, you are not painting concrete, you are going over floor paint, so if it’s latex, you have to clean after sanding whatever rough spots. Clean twice and paint new latex.
If the old paint is oil, you have to sand every square mm very well, or use liquid deglosser. See this post.
Then over the old oil, a bonding primer then your new paint.
Hi Brad,
Glad I found you. I have recently (3/2023) replaced my deck, except for the spindles, with Premium Grade Southern Yellow Pine from Lowes
Been reading your many posts and Q’s, but most seem to be about old wood.
Would you rec ECO for new wood such as the treated stuff I have? Or, would something else be better? Like you, and as I am an old fart of 77, zero to little maintenance and zero redo is a priority. The deck is roughly 320sq ft and uncovered.
Thank you for your time and advise. – Jack in TN
Hi. No, I would not treat pressure treated wood. I’d live with it. It will gray. Nice.
If you want red or brown etc, then sure do the Eco stain. Cannot hurt but the wood does not need it. Maybe it could bring SOME benefit, but not much.
Maybe yes on the spindles however.
Jack, you are not old. Just because there’s snow on the roof does not mean there’s no fire in the basement.
b
Hi Brad,
I have built a picture and frame from old skid board pieces (hardwood we believe, maple by the grain). It was sanded and then I have stained it using an oil based gel stain to match the color to other wood pieces in the home. I want to paint a white tree on the board. What is the best paint to use over/on an oil based stain. Is a primer required and if so what kind of primer would be best. Also what paint would be best to use under these circumstances.
Thank you for your advice.
Nadine
A high bonding primer. You could get Stix (a ben moore product) in a quart. Should be fine. Then any paint over that.
Hi, Brad! I need help! I really, really want to use Ecowood stain in black, but I’m worried it will be too hot/dark.
We have a large (around 2,000 sq ft) deck in southeastern Pennsylvania in the woods. We can’t grow grass on our property, but we are really good at growing moss, mold, mildew, algae, etc. We are very shaded, but since we’ve lost a few trees to the ash borers, the deck is starting to get more sun. The deck boards are pressure treated pine that have never been stained or treated and have been in the elements for about 4-6 years. They are good and weathered.
Here are my questions/concerns:
1. I just completed pressure washing the whole deck. I was thinking I need to give it a good scrub down with a brush as well. If I do end up using Ecowood stain, would it be helpful to use a deck brightener first? Could I just use oxyclean and warm water? Vinegar? Dawn dish soap? I wasn’t able to get all of the mildew up, so brushing with something is definitely needed (I think).
2. I am struggling between the brown stain, or the black stain, or if I should just get the untinted stain and add my own tint. I really like the “charwood” color from Sherwin Williams but am definitely NOT using their stain.
3. I am reading that when using Ecowood stain on a deck/traffic areas it can bleed or transfer to peoples feet or shoes (or in my kids case- socks). What do I need to do to prevent this from happening?
4. Prior to pressure washing, when it rained, the deck was like a skating rink in parts. Does Ecowood stain product help to combat that?
Please provide any other advice you have to offer. 🙂
Thank you for your time.
Nan
1 Brightening is fine, but scrape any old mold or coatings/sealant off. Really no difference what you use as long as it goes down to raw wood.
2 No, use only the tint they provide. You would be asking for a world of hurt otherwise. You can buy brown and black etc, even red and make your own color, but for future years you’d have to reproduce that. Keep it simple
3 Never read this. I think in time, after some rains and sun, it would not be a problem. Can you send me a link where you read this?
4.Slippery could be mold, but also just wet wood. You could scuff with sandpaper before staining. Ecowood will not fix this problem.
You’ll be fine. Remember to always TEST IN SPOTS!!
b
Hello Brad, our mother painted a Disney themed mural at the local library. Unfortunately someone decided to paint over it. Mother has recently passed away and I would like to restore the mural. I suspect the mural is acrylic and the cover coat is latex. Any ideas to strip the latex without disturbing the mural?
The only idea I have is to call an art restoration person. They would probably take off the paint with a scalpel and need dozens of hours. Or you could have a go. Don’t use solvents. Alcohol will loosen the latex, but may damage the mural.
LEt me know how it goes?
Brad
Hi Brad… We are getting ready to stain our older deck using Defy Extreme solid stain. Because it is an older deck, we have had to replace a few of the boards and we have had to patch some of the boards with wood putty and wood glue. My question is… Will this stain cover the places where I have applied wood putty, and glue?
Yes it will, no doubt…but think ahead in 5-10 years. You will be scraping all of this off as it is basically paint.
I would look into the most transparent stain that will cover. That way your prep in the years to come is just to pressure wash, hopefully, and to do very little scraping. I hate scraping!
b
Old house, where walls have yellowed with time the SW paint I’m using on a sample patch is pulling blue, where the walls were stripped of the wallpaper and now look white, the sample paint patch is true. If we paint 2 coats of tinted primer paint will the color show true even on the yellowed walls, or should we just paint 1 coat of white primer paint on all walls and then the 2nd coat would be tinted primer paint ?
If the existing paint is not flaking off, you can just prime and paint yes. I cannot see it so I cannot know exactly but if you use a quality stain blocking primer, you should only need one coat. Read on this site about those primers. But do a test spot to make sure whatever is causing the yellowing does not bleed thru.
Good luck
b
Hi Brad
What would you recommend to keep our fence the pressure treated brown colour? We built a new fence last season, and were told to let it sit before any staining or painting treatments. So here we are, 10 months later and ready to do something. I am not a fan of the grey color that wood turns to. I know you are, and I know lots of people that like it, and that’s their prerogative. But I actually like the brown colour and would like to keep it that way.
I’ve read most of your information on your site and am not sure what to use. The Eco wood treatment product sounds amazing, but it seems like it only comes in colours (stains). Is there a product you would recommend to protect the wood from the elements and keep it from turning grey?
Yes, I like low maintenence and don’t care about color you are right… Grasshopper, this is wisdom. But as you want to go brown, my advice is to go with very very transparent stain. This way, you get SOME color but when it weathers, you don’t have to scrape all the solids off that are cracking. What a mess. That’s where my wisdom came from ha ha.
So think ‘semi-transparent’, not semi-opaque. Look at samples in paint stores in person.
Eco is good as you just reapply after a quick pressure wash… and that’s only for color. The first time you do it you get all the protection for life. They come in non-color too which is the gray you don’t like. But you might prefer Cabot or any quality stain, but again, think “low solids” so you can just pressure wash and re-apply in 5 or 10 years. You’ll thank me then!
b
Hi Brad,
We just had our new house painted on the inside on 5/18/2023. There was flat paint on the walls, but we wanted something more durable due to having a two dogs and a children in the future. The paint used was the Valspar Defense I Coat Exterior Paint & Primer with Advanced Water Beading Technology Semigloss Exterior. The contractor painted the entire interior with this paint, including using the same brand for the two accent walls. We haven’t moved in yet, just going back and forth to check on the house and working with other contractors and it worried me that I the paint smell was still noticeable and pungent. My question is:
1. Should he have caught that it was an exterior paint and can you still use an exterior paint on the inside?
2. How long does off gassing take? We’ve opened all the windows.
3. Would we have to repaint it with an interior paint?
4. How long should we avoid staying in the home and can this cause future issues when the weather changes?
Thank you for your help!
You can tell that “painter” for me that he should stop calling himself a painter and go sell shoes. What a jerk. What an embarrassment to the profession.
How long to stay out of the house is the question, and I cannot answer it for you but I’d say at least a few more weeks with the windows cracked and the heat up high.
Repaint? Well, you should tear off all the walls or make the ‘painter’ remove all the paint. If it was me I’d repaint the walls with a shellac-based primer (BIN) etc, ad then paint again. No it’s not your fault.
Tell this ‘painter’ to get a lawyer and demand ALL youur money back. Get a real painter in your area to testify in small claims court as you have been put in danger.
Good luck.
B
Thank you so much Brad for your insight and expert recommendations! What if we do not repaint and just let the home air out and we just don’t move in right away, would we still be alright?
We do plan on taking some recourse.
You’ll probably be alright but since I’m not there, I cannot be sure. Best to call poisen control locally and ask them.
I plan to use Klean Strip Liquid Sandpaper to prep my trim for painting. You stress the importance of wearing a good mask and not letting the product touch your skin. Here is a link to this product sold through Amazon.:
here
At the bottom of the page is a video on using this product and the man does not wear a mask or protect his skin. So I’m confused?? I plan to use the mask and protect my skin & have good ventilation. My concern is others in the house – it’s not possible to not have other family members present. Do they need to wear a mask also?
They are crazy to video demo this without a respirator. It’s not just some covid mask: you need a chemical filtering cartridge. See my posts on best respirator… not expensive and you will thank me later.
Just one sniff and you’ll know how toxic it is.
If you close the doors and open windows, your family is safe unless they start to smell it. Maybe do the stinky part when they are at the ballgame.
Good lu k
Hello – I’m reading about using eco wood treatment product on decks but I’m wanting to ask you if you’ve seen it on a pine hand hewn square log cabin ? I’m having a log cabin built but I want the old weathered look. Interested in your thoughts . Thank you for your time and sharing with us your knowledge!
Not sure what hewn means, but if they put a treatment on it, I’d say no, don’t use it or write to EcoStain directly.
If it’s raw wood, yes, it would be great and bugs will leave it alone…for life so they say.
Good luck,
b
Hello Brad, really love your website. Lot’s of great information. I wish I would have found your site before I stained my pressure treated deck. I used a Sherwin Williams semi-solid stain several years ago. It looked good for quite awhile, however it is peeling up pretty bad as you have mentioned as a problem with solid stains. I like to remove it and restain with a good semi-transparent stain like Defy. I saw the tools that you listed for stain removal and I noticed that you didn’t have any mention of a chemical stain remover. I have a very large deck and have tried pressure washing which isn’t doing a very good job. Just wondering if a chemical stripper would help the pressure washer to remove most of the stain and follow up with angle grinder? Also, sometime down the road, I’m going to need to replace the deck boards. I currently have 2X6 boards. Was wondering about using 5-1/4 deck boards next time. Do you think one is better than the other?
Sorry to hear of the mess. Pressure treated wood is tricky to coat
Yes, a remover would turn your old stain, which is really paint, into a goop that would then be easier to blow away. Big mess ahead.
Since you asked… I’d just scrape loose paint, prime raw wood and re-stain. I’d do that every few years forever until your new deck which will be steel frame and Lexapanel or something waterproof and NO maintenance.
On the wood… no opinion really. Better to ask an OLD carpenter who does decks.
Good luck!
Hello Brad,
We installed a new cedar deck 4 years ago and initially stained it with Defy clear extreme deck stain since we liked the natural cedar color. The clear stain didn’t hold up due to the sun exposure, so we stripped it and reapplied the chestnut Defy deck stain last spring which looked fantastic. Now, just under a year later, the defy is chipped off and the bare wood is showing in numerous places. Do we just clean the deck again and re-stain the entire deck? Will is be splotchy where the bare wood is? We’ve been struggling with the Defy product for the last few years, and it was our understanding it was quite easy to use, so I am not sure what we are doing wrong. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Laura Zellman
Well, deck stain does degrade and need pressure washing and reapplication, but one year? that’s not long enough.
I wish I could be exact but my best advice is to call an OLD pro painter to come out and give you a price and you should pick his brain and maybe still DIY or maybe hire him/her. We know people do this…part of the biz.
Good luck,
b
My deck right now has behr stain on it. Can I apply the Zinsser cover stain primer over that then use the insl-x tough shield over that?
Yes, sounds fine. Pressure wash, and do 80% of your labor on the prep and you’ll be happy
b
Hello Brad,
I just ran across your site while searching for the best product to use to re-paint a deck. Currently it has what I believe is acrylic latex paint on it that is peeling in some areas, not too bad yet, but I wanted to change the color and that’s the reason for a fresh coat of paint. Plan to power wash, and scrape the peeling areas but wondered what would be the best paint to go back with, that can be tinted at Lowes or HD hopefully? Also I plan to spray the pickets and roll the floors, any suggestions for that as well. Thanks, Rob
You have to check that it is latex or you might be making a big mistake. On this site, I have a post on how to tell latex from oil. Tight for time or I’d link it.
Lowes will tint but if you can go to a paint store where they really train the sales people. HD Lowes etc they really don’t know much. IMO
Yes wash scrape, sand. Unless really big, I’d roll and brush it all: 9″ roller and good Purdy brush…see my tools page for what I use. Don’t go low on tools or you’ll learn the hard way it’s wasting money!
Good luck
b
Thank you Sir!!! Yes, its a pretty big deck with about 500 pickets, we are going to tackle my sons deck as well. If spraying them, Do you have any recommendations for a middle of the road sprayer that will do the job but will not cost tooooo much? Thanks
Two ways to go. Homeowner level, pay about 500 or pro level and re-sell. You’ll get back 1/2 what you pay. And you’ll have a great machine while you keep it.
See my ‘best sprayer’ and it has links to the pro sprayer page.
I like the 490, but you’ll probably go Magnum, which is all good as Graco is a solid company. I’d never go with any other. Good luck,
b
I am thinking of painting my hardwood floors. What is your opinion of Rust-Oleum 7200 PU Floor Paint, which is supposed to be extremely durable thanks to the addition of polyurethane to the formulation.
I’d give it a try. The main thing is prep though. Sand, sand and then sand some more. CLean well, and follow instructions exactly. You might document the work in case you have any problems: if it does not last as they say it will.
Good luck.
b
Brad, a few years ago, I painted my driveway in a dark brown color by Rustoleum Restore, but now it’s looking kind of funky. I would like to repaint it, but the product I used is discontinued, and I can’t find a similar product in dark brown. All I find is some shade of gray, which will not match my house! Any suggestions?
Yes, that stuff is not good stuff and only for decks I thought. Not for cars.
I cannot see it but I’d say rent a floor sander and get rid of it and put an actual driveway paint on whatever is not coming off as well as the asphalt you expose. Messy, but you’ll be done at some point and it will not happen again.
Hi Brad
I’m painting my finished wood trim white and would like to know if you would recommend BIN synthetic shellac primer. I’m trying to stay away from oil based primers.
When you say ‘finished wood’ you must mean stained and clear vanished. I’m assuming that. So sand or degloss every square millimeter then any high bonding primer. I never used the synthetic shellac except once as a mistake…I did not know they came out with it. The real shellac is the thing but ti’s much more toxic than oil. In any case, you need bonding, and if you can find that in a water based product, great. I can’t think of any but there must be some out there. I like the toxic stuff wearing a respirator: it will BOND.
Good luck
b
Hi Brad,
The caulking around the whole house is cracking. I would like to remove it and recaulk. What is the best caulk to use. Open for any suggestions in fixing this problem.
Where it’s coming out yes pull it out. Where it’s just cracked and still tightly affixed to a surface just re-caulk it.
Best caulk: see my article here
i moved into a house with old hard wood floors that were painted with black chaulk paint. it’s not holding up at all. idk what was used to seal, but it’s not holding up to pets and always looks dirty. i want to repaint with something lighter and easy care. I’m not a perfectionist, but I want a somewhat durable, easy mop surface. i scuff sanded, but it still wipes dirty gray. i tried orange striper. but it was much “gummier” than with usual paint. the also painted trim and over papered walls and cupboards, but its white and very light blue.
thanks
I’ll avoid the paper and walls question but as to the floors… You have to remove the old paint if it’s not bonded to the layer below. Probably it had some clear varnish and they did not sand/degloss the varnish…just painted over it. Rookies.
So rent a sander and study up on how to remove paint (it will probably go fast).. or buy a low speed sander and lots of paper (see my site for the Bosch, the one I own) and once removed, put a bonding primer like STIX from ben more to go between the sanded floor and the new paint. You should be ok. If this is not making sense, just call a painter and let him/her tell you what they will do. Get an OLD painter, not a kid.
Good luck.
thanks for replying so fast. I tried hand sanding to rough up the paint. it comes off really easy. the problem is that the paint it too chaulky and gets everywhere and won’t come clean enough to paint. I just realized that maybe I should have tried mineral spirits instead of just degreasing cleaner to wash off. I do not want to sand anymore than i have to to paint with lasting effects. If mineral spirits will wipe clean can i paint with the BW products that you recommended?
Yes, after the paint is off,… by any means…. Stix is the thing. Best to scuff the old floor finish if it is shiney so the Stix can bond best. If it’s too much, just do the traffic lanes at least.
b
Hello Brad,
I recently acquired a used cabinet that is a dark brown (not real wood, I’m sure) and I would like to change it to an off-white, so obviously a primer is necessary.
What type of primer is best for this sort of project? I’m thinking BIN?
If it’s real wood, sand and yes Bin oil based or my fav STIX a ben moore product. If it’s veneer (fake wood), definitely STIX.
Sand before each coat, lightly.
Good luck
Hi Brad,
Lots of great info, thank you, I just discovered your site, researching deck painting/saving tips.
I just had to replace two rotten deck planks and thinking what i should do, or what, at a minimum can I do, at this time of year (Oct, in Toronto, cold and humid, but there are still a few sunny days left) to protect a neglected deck ..https://imgur.com/a/L8bujgi. Several years ago I painted it, but didn’t have the energy to repeat the job.. I’m willing to do something now.. Pls have a look at the pics. What do you recommend? Thank you!
Sorry for the delay, I got sick. If the boards are solid, just do what you have been doing: stain or preservatives as you like. Nothing will make them last forever and you’ll have to replace it all at some point when it becomes unsafe. There’s no painting cure I’m afraid
Hi Brad,
Can you tell me what I did wrong here? I’m trying to do touch ups and the original sherwin Williams paint is discontinued for my condo so they gave me the next closest match. Am I just making things worse?
https://i.imgur.com/BoPy7hg.jpg
Hi. Yes, they should have warned you. Even if they had the same formula, it would not have matched because the old paint has faded due to light…and SW holds its color well, better than most.
Still they should have told you it would probably not be acceptable….but fear not…brad the painter is… whatever.
What you need to do is simply paint the entire wall, not the whole room. But do from corner to corner and you’ll never see the diff.
If you have a gallon you are all set. If you have a quart, you’ll need more depending on the wall.
Let me know how happy you are when you are done!
b
Hi Brad,
Really appreciate all the info you put out there. Deck stain question here.
Was reading your stuff on the Eco Wood Treatment lifetime stain, including your responses to other questions. My understanding of deck/stain info is very basic.
1) Would you recommend removing the existing semi-solid stain by power washing (rotating nozzle), sanding, or chemical stripping + brightener? The deck fascia is mostly in cramped, somewhat difficult to reach quarters.
2) I don’t know what my deck surface material is, but I assume it is pressure treated pine. You told one person that the Eco Wood Treatment on pressure treated wood is over kill. You told another that a pressure treated wood deck should hold up without any stain, paint, or sealant. This surprised me. My wood is in overall good shape, but given that I have a 10 year old deck with one small area of rot (where the end of the board was in contact with dirt), should I assume my deck will last notably longer with Eco Wood than stripped and untreated? Or would my deck likely hold up fine bare and all on its own?
3) Is there a downside to the fact that the Eco Wood Treatment does not encapsulate the wood or cause water to bead up? Does this mean that water will soak into the wood some but the treatment will not allow it to cause rot or checking?
4) Reading about a one time stain that lasts the lifetime of a deck, I feel like I’m missing something. Why would anyone use anything else? I understand it grays the wood and color options are limited. Is that it? Are there other downsides I’m not seeing? It feels like a too-good-to-be-true deal. Even the color issue — presumably I could always stain over it if I want.
Really appreciate it!
Hi.
1. yes, wash with pressure but stripping no not really. Too much work.
Perhaps let it fall off in time then do more stain later. It’s fairly easy and not expensive.
Sanding only where the build-up prevents the wood from getting wet from the Eco.
2
I do think it’s overkill to stain pressure-treated wood but stain makers disagree. Hmm. Wonder why?
I’d replace the rotten wood and live with it.
If you want color, Eco has color or do some other stain, but it’s mostly cosmetic.
3
I think you are right, but try to keep an encapsulated deck! My next deck is that plastic coated wood with a steel frame.
Nothing is ‘forever’, but I do think the Eco stain is a very good ‘lifetime’ choice… meaning 20 years? more?
4.
I know, me too, but stains are big business too. Again, pressure-treated wood is meant to last so that’s the main thing.
I was amazed to find a fragment of wood in near perfect condition after 20 years: IN THE GROUND. In those days the pressure treated had arsinic and god knows what else.
Again, replace wood until it’s no longer feasible then build a steel and plastic deck.
Nice question! thanks
brad
Hi,
I am reaching out to folks who know paint just to ask if what I am finding with Sherwin Williams paint is the new normal?
Below is a video of paint I bought almost a year ago. SW says it was made 18 months ago. And that they have never had this complaint. (Probably because some dealers, like Lowes, tell customers it is “old”. Nothing they can do about it.) Yet, when I opened 7 more quarts of paint that had been in my cabinet for several years, only the SW (including a Valspar) paint was like it is in this video. Others, Dutch Boy, Kilz and Pratt & Lambert were certainly old, but mixed up fine. (I have a video of those, too.)
My question is, is this the new normal, self-destructing paint?
And if so, might we expect “Use by dates” on the cans?
How will this affect articles about “Using Old Paint” when this paint would not mix after two Lowes stores tried. And it appeared retailers were being taught to say, “Your paint is old.” Even though they admit having paint in their own garages and outbuildings, way older than 18 months that is still good.
The paint clerk at a local hardware store where I bought a replacement paint said a woman came in not too long ago with the same problem. He looked at the can I brought in to match, and said this is exactly what she was describing. He called a shift manager over and while poking at the paint said, “Look, this is what that woman was talking about.”
Everyone that sees it says they have never seen paint do this. Yet, all my Sherwin products from 10 years old to 18 months, did.
It is regarded in the top 5 paints on many websites. Is this our new normal? It’s only our grandkids way. They won’t bat an eye at tossing their 1/2 a can of left-over, 8 month old paint, into landfills and buying more. Because who will remember the 20 year old paint that was still good.
Thanks!
Molly Casey
This is a video I made of the SW paint that was according to them 18 months old.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/17dwVFpu44blYT4GqzqEiDJs5SClXVhBo/view?usp=drive_web
That has frozen most likely. Or the lid(s) was not on tightly.
Sorry I cannot be of more help. You need Ace Ventura’s brother, the paint detective.
b
Hello Brad, where do you usually purchase INSL-X tough shield? I’m having a hard time to find it in any stores. If the tough shield is not available, can we use Aqua lock primer and Sure Step on our 25 year old wooden deck? We are of course doing all the necessary prep steps since the wood is pretty weathered. Thank you!
the short answer is that yes you can do exactly as you suggested. These days you can order paint online with amazingly low shipping. It seems strange but it does work. It’s just that you have to wait for it to arrive. Where I live Benjamin Moore and Sherwin-Williams stores are plenty so that’s where I get it. Good luck finding what you need!–
Please advise us what brand and type of paint to get for our existing fiberglass deck. Would one need primer on first? Please help😳
The short answer to your question is that if you really want my honest opinion, don’t paint it at all ever. However you probably still will so…
… in that case my best guess is to use an extremely high-quality bonding primer if that’s what would be recommended by the maker of the fiberglass. My best guess at this point would be a Benjamin Moore product called sticks. Clean it really well apply the primer just the right temperature not in the sun and then paint with whatever deck paint you like. However having said all that you should definitely contact the maker of the deck material to see what they recommend. This is only my guess. Good luck
The short answer to your question is that if you really want my honest opinion, don’t paint it at all ever. However you probably still will
So in that case my best guess is to use an extremely high-quality bonding primer if that’s what would be recommended by the maker of the fiberglass. My best guess at this point would be a Benjamin Moore product called sticks. Clean it really well apply the primer just the right temperature not in the sun and then paint with whatever deck paint you like. However having said all that you should definitely contact the maker of the deck material to see what they recommend. This is only my guess. Good luck
Hi Brad, I read your driveway painting article with interest. You say not to paint when it is hot, in order to keep a wet edge, but it occurs to me this is less of an issue if you have grooves, such as on imprinted concrete, because you can end at the edge of a groove and then pick up the next day. Less visible in a groove, what do you say?
yes you are right. Groove to groove is the right way to keep from letting an edge dry if possible.
Best if your blocks are small. We do our best!
Good luck
I have a airless sprayer rig. Brand is commander. Think they quit making them in the 70. Trying to see what it’s worth
No idea. Sorry
Hello bad I’m a contractor pulling my hair out trying to paint this commercial job. I getting random paint streaks over the paper and not the joint compound on brand new drywall. I’m just the finishers these building were hung in a factory,Commercial modular buildings. They were built in the winter and I suspect salamander kerosene heaters were used to bake the buildings. I suspect they used said heaters with diesel fuel. How would I check walls for soot damage. The pva primer I using is wrinking turned brown and has random black spots. I need help I’ve tried every trick to get the latex paint to look decent. What does soot damage from the diesel fumes do to the finish of latex? I suspect I need a shellac primer but I need to prove my theory it’s 200k sq ft of drywall I need proof to get a change order approved to fix the issue. Thnx from a contractor that needs help
I think I know what you mean by streaks. Flashing, right? It’s the poor primer underneath. You’d have to start as if nothing has been done with good quality drywall primer, then 2 coats paint.
Sorry, but at least you CAN fix it. It’s a drag for sure. Your idea of a stain-killing primer is even better. Shellac may be a bit much, but if you have some, do testing. It’s only a few hours of work.
Soot? I think a good primer/sealer, not just drywall primer.
Now that I think of it all, yes, probably a BIN or Zinsser shellac based is what you need to the hell out of there!
Good luck
This is my page: skip to #3.
Let me know after?
b
My walls have just been retextured can I use superpaint paint and primer without having to prime the walls first
I would not do that but some companies make a primer and paint in one… It’s up to you. I prefer drywall primer and 2 coats of good paint.
When you say super paint, I don’t know that that is SW Superpaint. Even then, 3 coats is better and in coverage considerations often faster.
brad
Hello Brad
We emailed you with a question. Please look for the email. We are the folks that emailed you about which primer should we use on our plastered walls & ceilings after a contractor fogged our house incorrectly with a chemical that soaked into our plastered walls & plastered ceilings & rendered our house unlovable 23 months ago. The house is off gassing. We have tried painting it with Kilz max restoration (not oil) & 4 months later the chemicals bled through. Can another primer help us out?
What a disaster. First, call a lawyer!
Yes, try a Kilz but the shellac-based, not water-based. Kilz Max is good but you must seal off the toxins.
Still, I cannot guarantee success. You might have to rip out the walls. I hope that guy has insurance. What an idiot.
I’ll think more and reply if I have more to say. Best of luck. Sorry on behalf of dumbass painters everywhere.
Thank you Brad for answering so quickly. We appreciate your knowledge. No Lawyer wants to go after him because he was unlicensed & uninsured. Ripping out plastered ceilings & plastered walls can cost us over $100k ($ We don’t have). Our home owners insurance doesn’t cover chemical damage either. In our situation do you recommend 1 or 2 coats of the primer? And which shellac brand do you think would work best? I’ve been recommended the zinsser brand primer. When I bought the Kilz Max restoration…….at the time they had pulled the oil shellac off the shelves & they were only selling the Max Restoration which was water based & as we said before, the chemicals bled right through that one 4 months later.
Well, one healthy coat should seal it in, but 2 is probably wise. But how will you know if it worked? I’d seal off a room, do the primer (the alcohol or shellac based Kilz or Bin, not water or oil based and not ‘synthetic’ shellac, but the real thing only) and then let it dry and cure a while…few days? and then go into that room, still sealed off from air from the other areas and see if it smells. If not it worked and you do your entire house like that.
You can get the primer I mentioned online I think.
Hi Brad,
Thank you for all of the good information. If a home owner was looking for one sprayer for small to mid-size projects, what would you recommend:
– one of the Graco hand held airless; or,
– a HVLP such as the Fuji hobby or semi-pro?
Painting projects are 50% deck/outdoor and 50% small woodworking projects. Smooth coats and ease of clean-up would be two primary considerations.
It’s hard to do both with one machine. But the Graco handhelds do have a very low setting, probably about like an HVLP on it’s highest.
If you can, get one of each because I don’t think you’ll be happy with either.
Also a big job with a handheld will be a pain: so much refilling, but small projects are a joy.
You’ll get smooth coats with anything..that’s more of a touch in the hand. Keep your hand moving!
Hi Brad,
Thank you for sharing your experience. I was able to follow most of your info on painting floors, but I got a bit confused, when it went from wood to concrete…🤦♀️
At what point and with what product, can I fill between old floorboards? I heard that wood putty doesn’t last long?
I am getting the house ready to sell, but I do want to sell a “good product”, especially when people are spending as much as $100k over asking.
Thanks for those honorable words, yes, it’s the right thing to do…give someone a good product.
I have never done what you are doing, but I have used a floor leveler. It flows, fills gaps and hardens enough to be walked on.
Easy to find.
Hope it goes well for you!
Brad
Hey brad if I have an older home and I took out all the old wood paneling and found plaster walls that have been painted and glued at one time. If I sand the best I can to get the glue gone and I then able to paint or do I need to apply a primer
Hi. You DEFINITELY need a primer. That glue is from wallpaper? I’d wet it first and see if it will dissolve. If yes, keep it wet over and over wipe wipe wipe. Sanding would come after, then primer, then light sanding then 2 coats paint. Now, this is based on what I am assuming your you have. If in doubt, call a pro for an estimate and pick that brain.
Hi someone spray painted my RV trailer how would I go about removing that?
Thanks
It’s all in this post.
https://www.bradthepainter.com/how-to-remove-spray-paint/
Start with the least toxic, and move up until you get it off.
Test in spots for the nasty stuff. You can ruin what’s under it.
Good luck
Need to paint indoor stair hand railings that get lots of use. Old paint is latex, put on in 1973, semi-gloss, Sears. It has worn like iron but is finally beginning to go. I will remove old paint first. What is hardest white trim paint? Thank you.
Ben Moore’s advance is water-based but wears like oil. It drips and runs like oil to so read my post on how to apply it. Other than that, you would go with an oil-based trim paint.
Hi Brad, thanks offering such great repair tips. We have 4- 5 small chips in our acid stained concrete floor. They’re small (largest maybe 3/4 “ by 1/2”, 1/16” deep. The chips of course, show up very white ..
I’ve seen a lot of articles about using paint stain pens etc. but I’m not sure which is going to actually work . We don’t need to fill it necessarily, just touch up cosmetically.
Any advice greatly appreciated.
Best,
Chris Bennett Austin, Texas
I wish I could see it, but here goes. I’ll assume it’s not a garage as you probably would not care as much, but no matter where it is…Do you hve any original stain left?
Would you be willing to buy more? I think even just creating some stain that’s brown or whatever color is close to your stain would remove the eyesore.
A pen? Sure if you could get the ink in there. A sharpie may be the thing if it has a big flet tip. The concrete would certainly absorb it.
I think that’s all you need. You will forget it’s there by next year!
Good luck
Thanks!
Hi Brad after reading your deck painting article many times I have a question.
I want to take your suggestion and prime my old weathered deck before re-painting, my questions are below. Thank you in advance for your time and assistance.
The link in your article says to use Zinsser Cover-stain oil based primer, the link takes me to a alkyd based Zinsser cover-stain are either acceptable?
Also I will be painting my deck a gray, the cover stain primer is white, can i prime the entire deck white and cover it with gray paint or should I have the cover-stain tinted gray? AKA as the deck weathers and peels will the white primer be visible years later under the paint?
What wood filler should i use for problem areas on old deck boards?
My deck is pressure treated wood, 20 years old, in a 4 season climate, its been painted before, some boards have been replaced and are dry and raw wood. I was going to clean the deck with deck cleaner, sand the entire deck, wood filler to fix problem areas, prime the entire deck, then 2 coats of InsulX. Sound good? Thank you!
Alkyd and oil-based are (almost) the same, so yes on that. Chemically, it’s different but we often say, ‘paint that with alkyd’, which means oil.
Alkyds are a synthetic resin that binds the ingredients.
Time was all alkyd was oil-based. now there is a water-based alkyd… from Ben Moore, but just for interiors as far as I know right now.
You could ask a paint store to tint it or buy tints yourself: but you don’t know the maximum that you can put without altering the good properties. So maybe buy it at a store and ask for gray tint…as much as they can without harming the properties
But white is fine. Gray may just save you a coat, or not, but it will cover better.
Mine is 20 also…I’m thinking of a new deck…ug.
Your agenda works for me, but I cannot see it in person. A pro could give you advice that would be for sure, mine is not.
Still, it sounds good.
Here is the wood filler I use indoors and out
Hi Brad—I have a concrete parking area that doubles as the suspended ceiling for my shop. My two issues with it are 1) it leaks and 2) it gets extremely hot—soaks up heat and then transmits that heat into the shop all evening long. For the leaking, I figured I’d start with the Sikadur stuff you linked to (none of the cracks are huge, seems like the perfect product for that)—but I wondered if you had a recommendation for trying to reflect at least some of the energy that thing soaks up. I’ve read about coatings used for pool-side walking areas and how they keep it cool enough for bare feet, but the ones I’ve looked at were pretty expensive. Maybe just the lighter shades of AdCoat or KILZ (although AdCoat looks like they’re out of stock, completely)?
Many products are out of stock this year.
I think the only advice I have is to coat it with white. If it’s paint or even white roofing…
I have not seen it so I cannot tell. But I’d get something to last a long time instead of having to re-do it over and over.
Hope that helps!
b
I meant to ask what paint remover you would suggest I use.
I contacted you recently about prepping my painted garage floor for new paint. I’ve decided to remove the paint with a paint remover/stripper product. I’d like one that has least amount of floor cleaning once paint is removed.😉 Also you recommended using Oil Eater Cleaner Degreaser full strength on the floor. That is a pretty sudsy product. I used it on the floor using the 10:1 ratio to clean the complete garage floor and I think I still need to continue rinsing it. I’m thinking rinsing after using full strength would take for ever. Did you find it difficult to rinse until no suds we’re visible?
For the stripper, I’d want to know what paint is on the floor. Was it an epoxy or oil or just a latex? I’d start with a non toxic paint stripper and move up to the toxic stuff if that did not work. I suspect the citrus based safe one is no match for oil or epoxy…Not sure.
I wrote 10:1 as you used. I wrote to increase that for tough stains. Can you point me to where I wrote to use full strength? I’ll change that…it’s an error.
For rinsing, I just use a pressure washer over and over. I’m creating a new post on how to use warm water in a pressure washer (sink if it has a threaded faucet, or leave the hose in the sun and spray until cold water comes out, then repeat). Warm water helps.
But cold will eventually get all the soap off.
After the cleaner, you’re going to have to wash…and it’s time consuming…I don’t know of any way around that.
Let me knw about any mistake I made?
Thanks,
b
hello brad, i was interested in buying a paint sprayer. i am a beginner but wanted to redo my kitchen cabinets. i received help prepping and have everything stripped sanded and primed. taped off and kitchen is bare except the cabinets. i wanted an easy to use sprayer but something i can use in the future for redoing furniture and doors. with the potential for larger projects so i don’t know if i should buy a more powerful machine or a handheld one. need advice.
thanks
You are in that gray area between handheld airless and airless. One option is to buy a Magnum and sell it after your projects. You’d have to demo it to your buyer, but you’d get half your money back. The handhelds are more of a pain as you have to refill, but … 2 doors and a refill. etc.
I’d spend good money then sell. Key point is to clean very well and let dry quickly. Graco is the only brand I would go with unless you want a disposable.
Some of the budget machines are good for a few jobs, if you clean them very well.
I’d go magnum and sell…that’s me. You’d keep the handheld for years with good maintenance.
The big ones are here
and
the handhelds.
I’m just starting to paint my new home(first time painting walls) and the trim and fireplace are white in my great room. Is there any reason not to use primer as “white paint” rather than follow it up with two coats of another white paint? Even if you used two coats of primer that would be faster than 1 coat of primer + 2 coats of another white paint.
Quick question, I want to use plywood as a work table top in my new art studio. I don’t want to baby it, it needs to be able take a beating but I’d like it to look as nice as possible-which of your great recommendations/choices on ur how to paint plywood article would u choose? Tysm
I’d use primer as on this page
and then whatever paint you can afford. The best-looking will be Advance by Ben Moore….it levels itself and looks like oil but it’s water-based.
If not, you can use any interior semi-gloss.
Good luck.
Brad,
I desperately need your help. Just bought a house in Florida and slipped on the driveway and broke my ankle in three places. I’ve been told they used the wrong kind of paint. We needed to do something as soon as possible. We ended up hiring a family owned concrete and painting service. Now we’re in the middle of a nightmare. We paid $6900 to have our driveway and our lanai painted. All the work he did was power wash the driveway, fill in the cracks, and painted it the same day. I read through everything you have posted about how to paint a driveway and so many steps were skipped. That same day before he left there were bubbles already that formed on the driveway. Wasn’t too long before they all cracked and not only was the gray paint underneath showing but the red paint under that. The worker came back and put some type of Spackle on that and re-painted just those areas. Of course it peeled again. He came for the third time to fix it. The heat index was over 100°. He did not wash the areas or anything. He just covered the peeling parts with spackle and painted over them. The bubbles that did not pop he just painted over them.
Since we signed the contract in April the owner of the company will not answer our phone calls or messages. After the first painting of the driveway,realizing there were bubbles, I tried to contact the owner. The worker told the owner that we were refusing to pay the last $1000. I wanted to speak to the owner to tell him about the bubbles and to also tell him that there was no sanding done on the driveway to prep it. The contract specifically said that all the loose paint would be sanded. The owner called me then and said he was going to sue me and nullify the contract if I didn’t pay the last $1000. The worker added to the contract that the bubbles would be fixed. Worker came back three different times and the driveway has bubbles and is peeling He tried using a paint scraper to scrape up some of the bubbles with three different coats of paint. All that did was make the three coats of paint white up in a pile. That really made him mad!He then paint over that.
We’re going to have to take the company to small claims court. I just want your help. I need an expert painter’s opinion. Can you tell me the incorrect things the worker did. Is there anyway this driveway can be fixed? Do we have a case against them?
My and I are retired teachers and living off a fixed teacher retirement income. We’ve never sued anybody ever! We just don’t know what to do! There is so much to the story,but I tried to really condense it. There are things like the worker when he was painting the lanai he dripped paint into our pool (over 20 drops of paint). We were told how we could fix that! As an added note, the lanai was power washed and painted same day and no cleaning was done. The worker ended up repainting it because I insisted (several areas of paint was scratched off). The company is not cooperating at all. I can just see them doing the same thing by painting over problems until the year warranty is up!
Any help or suggestions you can give us would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much! I really learned a lot reading from your website. I know things weren’t done correctly. So much preparation was left out and now they’re just trying to paint over mistakes.
I’ll do my best, but I must state that you may not use my words here in a court of law. I wish you the best, I think you will win for sure if it comes down to that. Here we go: non-legal, non-binding advice:
In my experience, I have found bubbles come from moist surfaces..
You should never paint when it is very hot..it says so on the can!
Spackle? What kind? Some special floor mud may be ok, but most others not. Was it for exteriors?
Take many, many photos and see if you can get him on the phone. Check if it is legal to record as long as you are one of the parties. Various states differ.
Get him to acknowledge that it was painted the same day it was washed. There would be moisture in the concrete for a long time, even if hot.
Check with a concrete pro for verification. Many factors like the type of slab, etc. So you just need generalizations the judge will accept.
A lawyer will give you one free meeting. Ask if small claims court lets you bring a lawyer.
If this ever happened to me, and I know I am in the right, I would hire a law student to come with me as my friend and give me advice. They are sharp and will find logical flaws you will miss.
You say prep was left out, but I think the moisture is your main problem.
To fix it, rent a floor sander grinder and take it all off and then do it right.
Hire another painter for his / her advice and pay for them to come to court if you get there. Get someone over 50 in the biz a long time. Never kids. Painting is not easy but fools call themselves pros. They never did their homework and it’s the parent’s fault!! … as you know.
Good luck, feel for you.
Brad
Hi Brad,
I loved the example driveway you showed with the brick trim. I am wondering if the brick is a stencil or if it is realy brick. Thanks so much and also thank you for having such an informational website. Peggy
I think you might be referring to this post… not sure.
I did not take this photo, but I think it’s real brick.
Thanks for the nice words.
B
Hello Brad. I have a 6-7 year old 2×6 PT deck that has been clear stained twice. Living in the southeast the sun and weather have gotten ahead of me and now the boards are cracked and splintering. Trex type is not an option because of budget and joists are on 24″ centers. However, I noticed that when I remove a board to replace, the underside is still in good shape. It has some run off stain marks and grunge from being on the bottom side. My thoughts are to flip the boards, saving the good condition ones, re-apply, fill old screw holes and any cracks, lightly sand then use a solid color coating so I won’t have to sand down to bare wood. I know it’s a lot of work, but I’m retired and have the time. Concerned about the coating. I would like to use acrylic so the wood breathes. Is that correct? Will a solid stain work or do I need to paint? I apologize if you have answered these questions before, but I just found your web site. Thanks for your time
Well, if you paint, you know you will have to scrape etc in future years. I still like stains that only require a wash and recoat. So put on what you want, it’s a choice I will only drag you down with!
But as for flipping them? Well, the bottom will then take the beating. Will it lengthen the lifetime of the wood? I doubt it.
Here is what i would do. Get a floor sander or the variable speed grinder I have with lots of pads. Then take down the wood maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch and then apply your product.
Decks are very impermanent aren’t they?
So I was hesitant but was still considering painting my deck with one of the “restorer” products out there. Thank you for your honest, down to earth remarks. I saw some of the customer complains, photos and lawsuits but assumed that most just didn’t follow directions or were chronic complainers.
Moving on, I don’t have the funds to replace my deck. It was stained by former owners but not maintained. The only damage it has is cracks and/or splintering where the ice has gotten into the grain over the years and one semi-curled board. There is no rot and some less sunny areas build up with algae. I did power wash it once (no chemicals, didn’t want to harm sensitive plants) and that took off a lot more of the old stain from the decking surface. Could I sand it down, fill the cracks with an epoxy, polymer, etc and re-stain it with one of the semi-translucent stains you recommend? I do not mind the hard work once, but I won’t battle peeling, flaking mess of paint each year. I have no objection to reapplying some stain after a few years but never all that scrapping, sanding, reworking it every year or two. YUCK!
Living in Mid-Atlantic region of USA, most of deck exposed to hot sun, with minor shaded areas that gather algae if left unattended.
Thanks,
Danyelle
I would not layer on thick paint which is what that stuff is.
I’d spend as little as possible and start saving for Trex or some new deck. As you know, pressure treated wood is now very expensive, but not if you budget well.
Epoxy etc? No, not for me, but if you want that is up to you. I’d say take off all the peeling old paint, maybe get a very powerful waser …gas powered which you can rent..just use a rotating tip… Then I’d scrape what wants to come off and leave what is tight. Then I’d take the same color as existing and just touch up what needs it this year and every year… all the spots that peel until my new deck arrives. just my opinion!!
Good luck,
B
We are buying a home built 1911. Plaster horsehair walls . Entire house is wallpapered. We are going to remove this and it seems like the plaster underneath was “raw” I guess & never painted ever? Like dining room has several layers of wallpaper etc. question then is obviously we will
Have to repair cracks and damage but can this plaster that looks so rough and raw be painted like anything else ? I know we would have to prime it and deal with any stains but it seems so primitive? We had an old house before with plaster but o think it had been painted before so we just re painted. I’ve never dealt with walls that seem to literally have went from being plastered to being wallpapered lol.
No doubt you’ll have a lot of repairs. Consider hiring a team to ‘skim coat’. You’ll have perfect walls. But maybe you don’t want that… old walls have charm.
To get that paper off, definitely rent or buy a steamer. The speed is amazing. Good to do it in winter as it’s really hot, but really fast.
If you just repair the cracks, use a quality interior spackle and sand and prime in spots. Actually, you will prime the entire wall so just sand and roll the wall with drywall primer. Then check dry primer and see if any stains came thru. Then after a year or so, check paint job to see if any slow stains came through.
Good luck. Keep me posted. If you send before/during/after pics, other folks here will gain your experience. I’ll post your notes too if you like.
Brad
ps, I’m thinking I could turn your project into a new post on wallpaper removal and wall repair. Want to help? I’ll make you a star!
Ok once we get started removing paper I’ll take some pics etc. curious but afraid to see underneath! The steamer I did read about & seems like a good idea since so many rooms are involved .
It will be a mess, but keep steaming or just wetting with a big sponge… keep it wet a long time… and use a scorer tool.
It is a roller thing that scores the paper allowing the water to penetrate. I found that useful. Then a must is a razor scraper.
If you have a lot, definitely buy one. Then resale is high and you’ll have it for almost free.
A quick search found this one. Seems good.
Hello,
Looking to stain or otherwise alter the color of the brick on our home in MN. It’s not structural, is just a decorative brick at the front of the home similar to this:
https://imgur.com/gallery/GWF5qNM
The body of the house is getting painted SW Alabaster windows, soffits, gutters, etc all in SW Urbane Bronze. Need to tone down the orange/ red in the brick and am hoping for a more charcoal appearance.
What do you recommend for product and process to do this?
Do a test for sure. Do a lot of testing. I don’t know if I’d do this personally. Is it clay? real brick material?
I’d ask in a paint store and use what they recommend. SW or Ben Moore are my choices always.
Good luck
Hi Brad!
Thank you for the website. It’s amazing!!! I foolishly put a popular water seal on my pressure treated deck without doing enough research first. I’ve waited 3 years to allow it to wear off. My question is, can I paint over it now?
Many thanks,
John B.
Probably, but let me talk you out of it. Go with stain that you never have to scrap, sand, and have crack and peel for ever and ever.
It’s more work than the nice look gives you when you paint a deck.
But if you insist, do some testing this year and paint next year if you get good bonding. Use the best bonding primer you can buy.
Good luck.
B
I’m trying to paint a cottage ceiling which is 50+ years old plywood and crossbeams (subfloor exposed downstairs,) and dark wood veneered paneling. I want to avoid oil primer wherever possible. Would Zinsser 123 be an appropriate cover for starters with oil base touch up for areas that come through, or would you say to go for oil based for the whole job so as not to have to come back? Thanks!
I would do the latex stain killing primer which will stop most stains. Then I’d wait a while and see what bleeds through. A good light will help. Look closely. Time for stains to migrate can vary, so it may be a year or more.
Do a test with that latex. If all areas bleed, yes go oil-based stain killer.
Sometimes that kind of thing is just necessary.
Good luck.
Brad..my house was built in about 1912. I have horsehair plaster walls and have figured out how to use the paints etc. My problem is…chimney got blocked with 5′ of condensed birds nest. Had a great chimney team, cleaned, installed a liner.. none..or at least none left.installed cap etc. My issue…upstairs on 2nd floor, I believe the chimney is up in the middle room. To the attic. When we had chimney issue, moisture heavily came thru the chimney. Is like to expose the brick in that room. But don’t know how to get the…I think it is some sort of board off. It’s all stained from leakage..not leaking anymore, so what’s on top of the supposed board peels. Any suggestion would help. I live in Delaware. Thanks sooo much. And can.i seal the brick?
You can seal the brick if you have access, just use a good masonry primer.
The board is not clear to me. Is this something blocking the flue? In any case if it is wood, you would scrape, primer and paint.
Use a primer that says “stain blocking” other primers will not stop the water stains from bleeding through.
I hope this helps.
B
This seems to be board that was placed OVER the brick of the chimney. It appears that they didn’t want the brick showing back then. It’s all stained and peeling. Comes off in little chunks, Some fell off when the wetness came thru the bricks when there was no liner…or no more liner from the original way things were. It’s actually what has made me want to take that board off and expose the brick. But I don’t know how to get the board off.
Sorry I can’t help with removal, but if you want to paint it, it’s the stain killing primer then paint. Lots of scraping first. Good luck.
Hi Brad,
What paint do you recommend for 4×4 deck posts ? There is moisture from grass/weeds around the bottom of the posts. Posts are already painted white to match railings but post paint is chipping off. Thanks, Lee
If those were pressure treated, you might have a hard time getting anything to stick.
The best choice is a high-bonding primer. I like Stix from Benjamin Moore.
I’d pressure wash, scrape or grind the spot prime where paint came off with Stix then paint with exterior paint.
Warning: it’s going to be an endless war. The elements never give up.
You can read what I wrote about pressure washers and grinders and Stix…just use the search feature above.
B
Have semi covered back wooden porch on which my 130lb mastiff puppy spends a lot of time going up and down the wooden steps tracking dirt, mud, and shedding tan hairs like crazy. Live in Virginia & get rain,snow, humidity, heat/cold. Needs to clean easily and be really durable. Needs to dry fairly fast too. Your suggestions? Thx Have used Behr deck over at my river cabin, but don’t know if that’s best. Would the BM product be good?
Virginia, my old home. It’s not clear if you mean only deck paint, but I’ll assume that.
Go with the ToughShield seen on this post. But no paint will hold forever, so store the can well and touch up every couple of years as needed.
It’s what I do.
Good luck
B
Hi Brad
Can you mix rustoleum 2part tan semi gloss epoxy garage floor paint with same product but in gloss?
Thanks for your time
If you want to mix 2 cans that make up the semi, and 2 cans that make up the gloss, I think that would be fine.
I’m not sure if you mean gallons or quarts or what, but if you mix 4 gallons, that would be a big mistake. I could not even spray that much paint in within the hardening window…the ‘pot life’.
If you are putting 4 quarts, then sure. You’ll get a glossy-semi-gloss.
You probably don’t care about the gloss right? You want to just use up the cans and not return them or you can’t return them.
Yes, sure, go for it. Don’t think tho that you can mix 1/2 of each of 4-gallon containers. You cannot. The ratio will be off and either it will NEVER dry or worse…I have no idea how bad that could be. Then to scrape it all off? Just shoot me.
Good luck,
b
Hi Brad,
Part of my deck is about 25 years old and part is 10 years old. I have to replace several rotted boards and recently bought pressure treated pine for this. Three years ago, I used Armstrong -clark semi transparent stain which lasted about a year. I would like to use the ECO wood treatment. What products would you suggest to clean and prep the deck? Can I clean and treat the whole deck at the same time with the new and old boards? And then, can I use ECO on the whole deck with old/new deck boards?
Thank you!
Wanda
Buy a small packet and test on your previously stained wood. It sounds as if it will absorb quickly which you want. Good stain will prevent this but it seems your stain has evaporated, at least mostly.
TEST is the key. Test in various spots and check it well.
If you go ahead with the ECO, let the new additions age for the required time. Check with the store, but it’s usually 90 days, but I don’t know what wood you bought.
Pressure wash. I did not use any brightener etc, just wash, let dry well, and garden spray on the Eco. After the curing time is done for the new wood.
Good luck,
B
Good morning Brad!
My name is Bryan and I thought I prepped and was cautious enough as to not allow overspray to get on my painted stucco while painting my RV GATE. I’ve used goo be gone but have to wipe it off quickly because it takes of the original paint on the stucco. I’ve used a scrub brush, olive and peanut oil and mineral spirits in test areas with a scrub brush. Those methods seem to take the thick paint caught in the nooks and crevices but seems to sheer the remaining.
It seems like you know your sh..t
and I would appreciate any input you might have. I do have picture I could send once you respond back so that you might have a better understanding of what I’m dealing with. Unfortunately, I didn’t notice the overspray until today and its been a week since – backing in the hot AZ SUN. My goal is to not damage the original paint that’s on the stucco, but understand that is going to be difficult if at all possible.
I don’t have a pressure washer but am looking to purchase on Amazon.
Thank you for your time and future response !
Bryan
Yes a high pressure washer but be careful: get the rotating nozzle for sure. Does not come with usually. check that they are compatible. Other than that, from the way I read it, you may need to repaint. Sorry for that. The time delay is going to make it hard. Good to have that washer anyway.
https://www.bradthepainter.com/how-to-remove-spray-paint/spray-paint-removal-with-pressure-washer-2/
Hi Brad! Please help. I just bought a house two years ago with the most beautiful deck. Huge deck, two levels, two sets of stairs, railing galore. When I bought the house, the deck had just been painted with Rustoleum Restore. It was gorgeous. Well that didn’t last long. I ended up painting it again last year…with more Restore same color. This year it is flaking off again. Everywhere!! I have tried everything to get it off. Boiling water, multiple brands of stripper, rented a hot water pressure washer, rented a drum sander with a grinder pad. This stuff ain’t coming off.
I need to know what to do. At this point, I may just need to put some sort of primer/bonding on it and paint over it again. I’m just one little girl. No one is helping me. I’m not hiring it out. I can do this but I need to know what will work. Tired of spending money on things that aren’t working. I’m fine with spending the money on quality products. Just please tell me what to buy and in what order to apply. I’ve read all of your how-to guides. Don’t think I saw anything that specifically said how to cover this stuff up if it won’t come off.
I live in Georgia, the deck has no shade.
Thanks!
First, so sorry about the delay. We had a problem with the ask a painter page!
I know it’s probably too late but…
I’d strip it all with a low speed grinder. You’ll find it here.
https://www.bradthepainter.com/best-deck-paint/
Look for the heading Use electricity. Thank me later.
The thing to do is go down to the wood, then prime and paint. Stain will not work because you will never get all the old stuff off.
Don’t get a high speed grinder: it melts paint, what a mess.
Good luck,
Brad
Hello Brad,
I have a stain question. I have a pressure treated deck. I have used Thompson’s water seal the past three years( Yes I know) so the deck is now what I would call bare except for dirt and green mildew.I would like to try the Eco product you talk about . My question is will water bead up on the deck or does it saturated into the wood ? How about the Defy product ? does any stain waterproof or do I want a sealer ? Or is there a stain/ sealer out there? As you can imagine the decision is difficult with so many products .
Thank you
Kathleen Man
First, so sorry about the delay. We had a problem with the ask a painter page!
I know it’s probably too late but…
No water will not bead up. But it will aslo not rot and bugs hate it. Still, once per lifetime. It’s on my deck. Defy, sure, good for stain, but it’s not the same animal. Just never use Thompsons. Waste of money
Good luck,
Brad
Hi Brad,
Thank you for this site. I am getting ready to paint my living room. My daughter works at a candle making store and had been bringing home candles that she made. She burned them without leaving them to cure which caused allot of soot in the room. I found a web page that said to use laundry detergent to clean dirty walls before painting . I used Seventh Generation laundry detergent and it did a really good job. I’m wondering if I have to go back over the walls with a pail of water to rinse before I paint or will it be okay to just paint. Also tried to wipe the ceiling, but I’m getting older and don’t have the physical strength to do a great job so I have streaks. Am I better off using Benjamin Moore or Kilz on the ceiling? The house was built in 1959. I believe it’s really old sheet rock. On last thing, I do have some crazing on the walls where the wall meets the ceiling (like someone cut in with too much paint and it dried cracked) should I sand it or just paint over it?
First, so sorry about the delay. We had a problem with the ask a painter page!
I know it’s probably too late but…
I’d use STIX from ben moore. Test in spots on walls and ceilings. See if it ‘sticks’. Then if yes, paint away and you’ll be fine. If no, wash much better with hot water until the primer sticks. Really test the bond.
Try to sand the old paint, but latex is nearly impossible to sand. You could apply drywall compound, but then you sand, primer and paint.
Good luck,
Brad
I have old wood paneling in my basement I’m interested in painting. It appears to be wood veneer but the top surface is not the natural wood grain. The woodgrain pattern is printed on the surface. What is the best way to proceed? Also the outside corner trim and baseboards are not wood but plastic or vinyl, which will also be painted.
Thank you!
I stumbled across your site and I’m very thankful. I am putting in a basement bar room area and just rented the depot machine to scuff up the virgin concrete
That’s 20 years old. I was thinking the Ben Moore solid stain in grey but was looking for a glossy finish. Do u recommend another product or this would be my best product to use. Thanks very much in advance.
Marc
Hello Brad. I’m on your painting a driveway page. Do you have any suggestions for removing bad red mud stains? Our sprinklers pull from the pond behind the house and deposit red in large swaths on the driveway. Tried pressure washing with different cleaners but nothing has worked. At this point I want to paint with the epoxy you suggested but need to clean first and then I worry the red will stain the new paint. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Hi. Well, I cannot see it so I can’t be sure, but it may just be stain and if you put epoxy over it, it may, it PROBABLY will not bleed thru.
The way to know is to put some on a test spot. You would not use up your 2-part mix, but if you have one-part, do a test. If you have 2 part, maybe just go for it.
No promises. Epoxy is not like interior latex or even exterior. It’s going to be much harder for a stain to bleed into it. Let it get very dry after your good washing.
Good luck.
Let me know!
b
Hi Brad – thank you for this site!
We live in an old bungalow built in 1919 with what we suspect as lead based paint on the trim in our dining room (crown molding & chair railing.) The trim has been painted over many times, and chunks have fallen off, color has turned, etc. We are trying to decide whether it‘s okay to encapsulate/paint over the trim or we need to get more serious & remove it all together.
Do you have any pointers on criteria on what’s a good candidate for encapsulation vs. removing? Thank you.
For removal, only if professionals do it.
Encapsulating kicks the can down the road and someone will have to remove it sooner or later.
But it does make you safe in the meantime.
Hard to chose.
Good luck.
b
I have done something terrible, and don’t know how to fix it. Help !!
For my daughters birthday, she requested I take her violin to the shop to restring and make some slight adjustments. Which I did. But upon looking at it I also realized she had bumped it too many times, and had a lot of dings around the edges. So thinking I’d make her violin look extra nice for her day …
I took a Qtip and dipped it in Minwax stain, covered up the dings, well it looked so nice, I decided to go all around the edges so it would look even. It looks beautiful if you just stare at it. But if you touch it, it is sticky. Won’t dry. Two days. Her birthday was yesterday. She was unable to use it. I feel awful. but I can’t afford to take it to the shop twice. Should I try smoothing it out with mineral spirits?? It’s a delicate instrument, I’m stupid. I feel sick.
Yes, mineral spirits but try olive oil and other less intense oil based things first.
I think you did not shake the can and mix the components enough. Or it’s an old can…
At the most extreme, try citrus paint remover. Or just lemon at first, then move on in paint remover toxicity.
you’ll get it off. you may damage the finsh, but that’s probably ok I’m guessing.
Let me know?
Good luck.
Thanks, Brad.
I definitely used tape on the cracks. I’m using Benjamin Moore Regal Select, so I expect top coat quality should not be an issue.
I appreciate the help.
Hi Brad,
I’m painting my living/dining area (plaster walls) and have repaired some cracks with mud, smaller holes with spackle. My question is whether I can just put primer on those mudded and spackled spots before painting, or do I have to prime the entire wall?
I worry those areas will show through after painting if I don’t evenly prime the entire surface … but I’d rather not do the work if I don’t have to.
I’m going from a medium beige colour to white.
Thanks so much for all the help you offer people like me!
No, just prime the spots. You say you used mud on big cracks… I hope you used tape. They’ll crack if very big without tape.\
In any case, if you have doubts about priming, do a test with an area: prime some, the put 2 coats and use a light to see if you can see the difference.
I am guessing that if you use good top coat paint, you’ll not see any diff.
Good luck,
B
Hi Brad
We own a 1930 house that has horse hair plaster in the bedroom, years before we painted over the wallpaper that was on there and this time we decided to scrape off the wallpaper and just paint the plaster. We wiped the walls down with water to get dust and glue off and then let it dry for a day and then we primed with latex Kilz and and then let that dry for one day and then applied one coat of a colour and primer Behr Latex paint. This was one month ago and the room still smells very strongly of paint!!! We have had the windows opened for weeks and tried tricks like a cut onion or a cut lemon and even vinegar but to no avail. There was a tiny bit of spackling that was done on minor holes about 4 days before we carried out the priming. Any idea about how we can get rid of the smell or will it just be a case of time making it go away as we maybe did something in the wrong order or didn’t wait long enough to paint after priming?
Thanks for any help with this, we have had to sleep in the spare room for weeks lol…..
Hi. Hmm. Perplexing. Probably time, yes. No way someone spilled something and didn’t tell you?
I doubt the old walls are to blame. Nor any old paint on the walls.
Two ideas: one is a air purifyier with charcol…and or windows open as much as possible. Baking soda boxes can’t hurt too.
The other is to re-prime with an oil-based primer that is designed to block odors.
Still, I’m guessing someone spilled some paint thinner or …. gosh who knows what.
Anyway, sorry I could not be of more help. Find a local painter to come by. Find an OLD one.
Good luck,
B
Hi Brad! I love that I found this site with great questions (and answers). I’m in the process of painting my basement which has fire engine red walls. I did not tint the primer (I used Kilz 2 All Purpose) because I didn’t read this site ahead of time. Anyway, the first coat is on and I’m wondering if I need a second coat of primer before painting. I am terrified the red will bleed through if I don’t! We are going with an Eagles gray color. I really don’t want to prime again if I don’t have to – the room is 30 x 30 so it took a while. How do I know if I need to prime twice? Will it affect how many coats of paint? Everything I’ve read, including here, says priming twice is rarely needed. Please help! 🙂
Gray primer is key when you are APPLYING red. Would be nice for a gray top coat too, but not important.
Just do a test in an area for your next coat.
Since you primed, you should not need more than 2 gray coats.
Test with the same roller you’ll use. You can wrap in plastic and keep in fridge to not let it dry out.
No, you should not need more primer!
b
Hi Brad –
I am in the process of making a decison on a semi transparent stain for my deck and fence. Both are made of pressure treated lumber and have never been stained before. I live in Northeast Florida close to the ocean. Looks like your top choices are #1 Deck Stain and Defy.
Is that correct? Like everyone I want the stain to last and look good. What choice would you make? Appreciate your help!
Well, since you have pressure treated wood, you are protected. I have a 20 year old deck and some footings have been wetted every rain and still are hard like new.
So if you stain, it will be for looks only really. You will get some protection, but it’s overkill. For bonding, I suggest either stain, clean well and dry fully, then DO A TEST and wait and check the bonding. Often stain and pressure treated wood will not adhere.
Good luck
b
The swirls are already there, on 1970 plaster walls. I wanted to know the easiest way to get the paint to cover. Paint pad? Roller(what size)?
I see. I would use a long-nap roller as I would with most textured walls. Maybe 3/4 inch wool-poly.
See this post.
When you get to the product page for the Roadrunner, select 3/4.
Good luck,
B
I am painting plaster walls with swirl design. Walls have been painted before. The last room I painted I used glidden paint with primer because I thought it would cover better. I used 3/8” roller. It was hard to get the whole swirl painted. Did 2 coats plus touch up trying to fill grooves. Should I have used a paint pad? Or different type
roller which seems faster except for all the coats?
I really have not done swirls, but I can tell you that the way to get what you want is to pick a wall or section of a wall and do lot’s of tests and make notes of what is what so you remember all your tests. Pros I know use a big sponge for marble effects etc.
Sorry I cannot be of more help!
Good luck,
Brad
Hi Brad – I’ve been spending quite a bit of time with you lately! Your website is very informative. I wish you were in my area (DC suburbs in Maryland). My husband and I are too old to clean, strip and seal our deck ourselves, and I’ve been having a hard time finding a company to use that is reasonably priced/willing to use my suggested (from your recommendations) products and do what I need.
I was disappointed the last time our deck was cleaned a few years ago, because the contractor applied a very orange stain without asking first. Then, in trying to remove mildew/algae last fall, because the deck became very slippery, my husband accidentally removed the stain on part of the deck. Now, I would like the remaining orangey stain removed, if possible, and then sealed with a semi-transparent natural weathered gray stain. I am thinking that I would like to use the Defy product you reviewed. Would you say that we need to clean and strip first, then use a brightener and then stain? Whatever you recommend, I think I found someone who would do what I ask because he is vey short of work right now. And the other question is, would you trust someone to do this who doesn’t usually use this system? I think he usually only power washes and then uses Ready Seal (which doesn’t come in gray). Also, we need to replace a few boards — will the new boards ever match or blend with the old? Sorry for such a long question! Thanks so much.
Hi and thanks for the nice words. Yes, just as you say, clean with water pressure, trying to strip off all you can, then a brightener which helps for stains as it neutralizes any acids on or in the wood.
Brighteners are not essential though.
I would not trust someone without much experience. I think it’s better to wait until you can find a good painter…look for an older guy/gal.
No, the new boards won’t match, but in time the differences will fade. Make sure the new wood has time to age: you should not stain new wood.
There are many good stains on the market. Ben Moore Arborcoat is great if you can find it locally. I have not used ReadySeal.
Good luck.
b
ps, what’s up with a painter not asking and putting orange stain? You paid him? I would not have paid!
Thanks so much for getting back to me. So, if I understand correctly, you are saying you don’t need to use a stain stripper product? The power washer alone will remove all of that orangey tone, even where it is still in good shape such as on the rails? (And to answer your question – I wasn’t home when the contractor put down that orange stain — and my husband didn’t realize it was wrong and paid him. Aargh.)
Before I found you, I had looked at Consumer Reports which doesn’t give the Ben Moore semi-transparent Arborcoat very good reviews, so I guess I have that stuck in my head. Not sure how they test…
I’ve read that too about Arborcoat, but I’ve always had sucess with it. I did hear they are re-formulating it which is why I like the ones on my site.
For the stripping, you should test first. I cannot really tell from here obviously. I’d take my planning slowly if I were you until i found a method that works and is do-able.
B
Brad: Since Covid-19, I have found that I LOVE to paint and have painted the mud room, small powder room and my master bath. I am now ready to tackle a huge living room/sitting room area going from a dark color to a very light white/tan. The trim was painted 16 years ago and is oil based. I read your articles on ADVANCE and wondering what type of brush I would use if I go with this product (it is an old house built in 1845 on cape cod) and whether I would need to sand all the trim before hand. I read about OIL BOND on another site but I love your site and recommendations/tutorials. Thanks for your help and I look forward to hearing back from you.
Hi and thanks for the nice words.
That oil-based trim paint must be de-glossed and that can be accomplished by sanding or by a toxic deglosser shown on this page.
The brush is my standard #1 go-to brush, the Purdy Nylox. It sounds like you could handle the 3 inch. It’s heavy when loaded with paint. Most beginner painters start and go with the 2.5 for some time.
BTW on that living room, you’ll want a primer before your 2 top coats. Two alone will show the dark haze coming through. I’d use a non-toxic drywall primer or whatever decent low-cost primer you can find. No need for stain-blockers.
Good luck,
b
Hi Brad,
Love your site with loads of info.
I have a question. What nap size do you use for roller of smooth plaster walls. Was told to use 1/4 but only could find 3/16. The nap with 3/8 says for smooth or semi-smooth. Would 3/8 be ok?
Generally, the smaller (shorter) nap leaves a more uniform texture. But this is something nobody ever really sees. 1/4 is fine. People make too much of this size for that surface. I like the long nap becuase it holds more paint: less dipping.
Good luck
What roller cover to use on orange peel walls? I.e. nap size
Hi. I’m not sure what you mean by orange peel. Do you mean textured walls? The kind where they spray the mud and flatten the tips of the drops to create a texture?If so we call that ‘knock down’ and you can use any roller. I would always use the 50-50 poly wool for reasons I explain here. If that did not answer your question, just write back again.
Good luck,
B
Hey Brad,
I want to paint the inside of my enclosed trailer to seal and preserve the plywood. I was thinking of priming & painting the walls and doing the floor and ramp with a garage floor epoxy chip flake coating. I understand the non-slip paint is not as easy to sweep or clean up. What do you recommend?
Thank you for your expertise and all the great tips on your site!
Mark
It’s true that floors with texture are naturally going to hold dirt etc. Still, if you can hose it off…is it a ramp that gets wet?… if yes I’d go texture of some sort. Wet ramps are very dangerous. I did it myself on my trailer and it lasted for years of use.
Plus you can vacuum or sweep, it’s just harder.
My opinion: Epoxy or any floor paint with a dusting of silica.
Read about it here.
Good luck.
Hi, I’d like to paint our old upright piano black. It’s stained
dark mohogany. I don’t want to spend a lot of time prepping it, in other words if I can skip sanding and priming that’d be great. I have Tremclad High heat flat black enamel paint in the house and am wondering if it’ll work to use without sanding and priming. Any advice would be appreciate.
Thanks!
Angela
Hi Angela. I think any paint will work, but as a musician, just wanted to mention that every coat will affect the sound. Best to strip it all off then paint of course. I think the best pianos use lacquer…no? Anyway on your plan… No don’t just paint without prep.
The easiest way to get there without sanding is Liquid Sandpaper, which is a very highly toxic liquid that flattens the surface and makes it ready for paint.
See this page about ‘deglossers’.
What I would do: Sand lightly, just scratching, but not deeply sanding. Then wipe with many clean damp rags, then prime with STIX, then paint. I wrote about STIX here.
Good luck!
Hi. I couldn’t find any info herein about wood checking. I have an old painted deck. I was going to sand it down like a wood floor but may try your pressure wash/scrape method instead then convert over to a stain. But – a lot of the redwood is checked. No rot but not pretty. Will the stain work in this situation?
Yes for sure wash well, but careful with the pressure…your wood may be soft. Use that rotating tip for sure.
A stain with good preservation qualities will be the thing. I used this stuff … not flashy but it’s a natural rot preventative and now comes in colors.
In any case, never use anything that promises ‘restore your deck’. These products are just thick paint and do nothing for you. THey are all being pulled off the market due to the hail of lawsuits.
Good luck!
b
Brad,
I want to use Eco-Safe Wood Treatment on my old deck. I’m excited about this product, as I have never stained it before. I have sealed it over the years, but none of those products remain. My question is, will Eco-Safe prevent the green algae that grows on the shadier parts of my deck on the north side of my house?
It is not really designed for that. That you may need to pressure wash annually, but this stain will prevent rot and bugs. To be safe read all the website claims. I’m using it all the time for things I build outside.
I need to paint or stain window and door trim, and the door itself. I’ve read the two posts you have on this (very helpful). All over the web, everyone says to use white paint. But that sounds to me like it would get grimy, even if I wipe them down occasionally. I really hesitate to paint doors white, especially. Is there something else you might recommend, something nice-looking and mainstream (not red, black, etc.)?
I’d need to know if it’s a front door, basement …etc .. There are so many possibilities. If you get a quality white, you can wipe the hand marks with a wet cloth and the good paint won’t chip too easily. White is the thing, but if you just can’t do it, yes, stain and coat with a clear coat. Lots to choose from there too. You can even skip the stain if you like the natural wood look. No so much for the low grade SPF wood..spruce pine fir. They are soft and need something… don’t stain so well. but hard wood stains very well.
If you send a pic, I could post here for others to see and we could do before and after….
Good luck!
b
Thank you for the reply. The trim and the door are interior (a small bathroom). The door is wood, and not hollow, though I don’t know what kind of wood. Would I need to use high gloss paint to get something easily washable if I decide to go that route?
Generally, yes, we put a gloss or semi-gloss on doors and window frames: anything we touch that gets grimey and needs cleaning. Eggshell today has some ability to be cleaned, but we don’t put it on doors etc.
Good luck!
Any pics would be nice for others (send to my email)
Brad,
I live in a house built in the 1920’s with the majority of the walls being plaster. There is a room with plaster walls that has been previously painted using the crackle paint finish. I now want to paint over the crackle paint to brighten up the room. From what i can tell the walls are in good shape, there is some unevenness which I am fine with (gives the walls character). I am thinking prime and paint, but I am not sure this project would require any other prep. Please advise type of primer/paint best to cover the walls and other prep I should be aware of.
Thank you,
Debbie
I doubt what we call crackle paint today is what you have, but maybe. In the old days they would add glue to make various cracked textures. People in the past were more conserviative with paint. Anyway while it is rare, if you have a real texture, like highs and lows as with weathered paint, you will see that come through many many coats of paint and primer. Paint cannot fill cracks.
So to really remove it, and don’t shoot the messenger… you’ll need to do what’s called ‘skim coat’. A very thin coat of drywall compound. Applying is not so bad…it’s the sanding that is so hard especially on ceilings if you have that there.
So since you are ok with some ‘character’ try just painting it with 2 coats (test spots) on different walls and look in various kinds of light.
It sure would be easier than skim coating. In any case, you can do all this yourself. No pros needed. Start with this video if you skim coat.
Good luck.
Brad,
Thank you for the advise. One clarification, the walls were painted with the crackle paint within the last 15 years. Not sure if that changes my options. I will probably do some test areas with primer and paint and see how it looks.
Thanks again,
Debbie
You’re welcome. Get a wide knife…10 inches or more to do skim coating. Lot’s of various sandpaper. Since dust masks are sold out, when sanding tie a cloth over your face!
B
Brad, I have ~ Dz. interior doors that need help. They are all the hollow composite wood with a textured look to resemble wood, white. My dry-run and my concern is that the paint is too thick. using BM Regal Semi Gloss/trim, and is timely. Wondering if i should remove them all from the hinge. TY
Yes. You are right, these doors are made to look like wood but they have all kinds of non-wood materials and painting them can be a mistake. In most cases you will be ok with PrimeLock primer after a light sanding.
A quart should do about 4-6 door SIDES.
Then sand again after the primer then 1 or 2 coats of paint.
Definitely remove and the hardware too. Put a mark for each door where the hinge goes and cover that with tape. Then re-hanging will be easy.
Brad, any information on painting kitchen cabinets would be helpful –
I’m going to be writing a full post this summer! For now, the key point is to work in a dust-free environment. If you can remove all doors and drawers to the garage and if you can enclose an area with plastic walls…a booth…that’s best. Please read my trim to paint post here. That covers primers and so on.
Also, definitely remove all hardware and masking tape where the hinges were, so you don’t gunk it up with paint. I label each door etc that looks similar to others. No missing when they go back. they can all be somewhat different.
Let me know how it goes or if you have a specific question.
Good luck,
b
Spray, roll or brush ?
I would spray if I had a space like a garage. If not I’d roll and then “tip out” with the brush to get parallel brushstrokes aligned with the panels of the doors. If you get a sprayer, the more you spend the better for resale and the less problems you’ll have. I have 2 sprayer posts: homeowner and commercial.
Thank you
Hello Brad,
Thank you so much for your time